/ Route Three at Diabaig

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Andy Nisbet - on 15 Jul 2017
Two friends of mine climbed Route Three at Diabaig a couple of days ago, and are sure that pitch 3 should be 5b (not 5a). They did climb the correct line (I've checked). Obviously I didn't agree 10 years ago when Northern Highlands South was written but now I can't remember. What do you think?
james1978 - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

We climbed this a couple of weeks ago and both thought that the grade was correct at 5a. It's a wild an exciting position to be in but didn't think the climbing was harder than the guide suggested. The second pitch on the other hand was "proper 5b" though.
James
Andy Nisbet - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to james1978:

Cheers - more opinions welcome.
Offwidth - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Is this a hint that work is starting on a new guide?
Andy Nisbet - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to Offwidth:

It's for a new Scottish Rock Climbs in the Wired design (same as Lakes and Pembroke). Well on the way but won't be out till early 2019.
Lamb - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Andy, as James said above. There is a real bouldery 5b move with blind feet on the first pitch (assuming it's done in two pitches, think it would be guidebook P2) above the heather ledge where you move slightly right then up.

The cracked bulge up top which you are speaking of is certainly no more than 5a. A couple of thin feet on super grippy rock (easier than Secretaries Direct, Glen Nevis) to get up to the the crack, then just one stiff pull on a super friendly hand/fist jam before you hit jugs.

The pitch would be nothing more than VS 5a in its own right if at Kilt Rock for example.
mike barnard - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Andy, I thought 5b for that top pitch. But then I also thought HVS overall for the route, and 5b for the top pitches of Route II and Route I (going direct).
Andy Nisbet - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to mike barnard:

2 for 5a to 1 for 5b so far.
Lamb - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to mike barnard:

Are people giving that top pitch 5b for the single jam or thin feet beforehand?
mike barnard - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to Lamb:

Can't remember it in that much detail I'm afraid. Just recall being surprised how tricky it seemed, and noting down 5b afterwards.
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Hugh Simons - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Did this with my mate back in April, we thought that the first 2 pitches were much easier than the top pitch. I remember thinking that the 3rd pitch was quite pokey for 5a! We did technically do the route in 2 goes though as we got the wrong top pitch first time around - I ended up climbing the top pitch of Gamhnachain's Crack which was a total sandbag at HVS 5b! We may well have got a slightly wrong line on the first two pitches of Route Three which is probably why we ended up on the wrong top pitch and why it felt easier than 5b. The 2nd time round we climbed the 1st pitch of Route Two then the correct top pitch of Route Three (a really good link up!). I would say soft 5b for the 3rd pitch.
MrRiley - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

5a I think Andy and E1 for the route overall due to the aforementioned tricky stuff on pitch 2. I have photos of the pitch in question if you're looking for the guide..
Andy Nisbet - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Hugh Simons:

Yes, I know it is!

I ended up climbing the top pitch of Gamhnachain's Crack which was a total sandbag at HVS 5b!
Andy Nisbet - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to MrRiley:

Opinions are pretty even just now between 5a and 5b. More welcome.
mike barnard - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

> Yes, I know it is!

> I ended up climbing the top pitch of Gamhnachain's Crack which was a total sandbag at HVS 5b!

What grade do you think it is? One of the few things I've got left on the main cliff, and looks good.
mike barnard - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Hugh Simons:

> Did this with my mate back in April, we thought that the first 2 pitches were much easier than the top pitch. We may well have got a slightly wrong line on the first two pitches of Route Three which is probably why we ended up on the wrong top pitch and why it felt easier than 5b.

I think you must have (got the wrong line). While there's gear and it's quite short, that bit on the 2nd pitch does feel more go-ey than the top crack.
Cam Forrest on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Guidebook route grade correct at 5b, 5a (-top end?)
Andy Nisbet - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to mike barnard:

E1 5b, myself and John Lyall thought.
Andy Nisbet - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to Cam Forrest:

I'd have clicked the like button, but folk might have thought I meant liked the grade, whereas I'm totally neutral. All I would have meant is thanks.

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