/ Portland advice for family group

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PhilWS on 15 Jul 2017
Wondered if I could get some advice for which areas to head towards for a family group on Portland having not been before myself.

Kids climb already but looking for some 4's to send them up. Looking for 5s and easy 6's for myself and the wife. From looking at the guide, there don't seem to be many that can't be walked into, but obviously abbing in is not going to happen with the children.

We will also have one complete newbie wanting to try out climbing....

Many thanks in advance
tim.rose2 - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

Have a look at the Veranda, Lost Valley / Dungecroft or the Cuttings / Bower. There's plenty at all three of those to meet your needs and access / paths are easy. If going to the Cuttings avoid the obvious easy routes on the left hand end of the main wall - they're awful and severely polished. Alternative easy routes can be found on the bower and there's also 3 or 4 easier routes in the new cuttings.
kedvenc72 - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS: I second tims advice. Especially the cuttings and bower. Can also finish days off bouldering in the evenings in bouldeefield or just down the road at the neddyfields.

Kevster - on 15 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

Depends on your level of comfort on approaches.
many areas with older kids will be fine. The boulder beach below Nedd fields has a number of routes in the 5 and 6s too, with as easy access a you can hope for beyond the cuttings, which is almost level access.
The Jazz Butcher on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

Also agree with Tims advice. There is also Hedbury over at Swanage if you fancy a change from Portland. Nice walk in to the crag and some easy routes at the seaward end sector. Not as much choice as Portland, but still a nice venue with an old cannon for the kids to climb on!

TJB.
PhilWS on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to tim.rose2:

Thanks for the advice. Will take a look at those. Info regarding polish especially useful as don't want the kids getting sandbagged !
PhilWS on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to kedvenc72:

All the excuse I need to persuade the OH I need to purchase a mat! Thanks.
PhilWS on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Just wanted it to be nice an chilled especially as we will have one adult with us who has never climbed before. Thank you.
PhilWS on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to The Jazz Butcher:

Just had a quick look and that looks v interesting.
I think that may have to be on the next trip but thanks for the suggestion.
Owen W-G - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

My advice for all Portland newbies - go to Fallen Slab.
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Owen W-G - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

Cuttings is such a grim venue, especially the easier routes. Blacknor beach has quality by the sea in the sun. No ab in required but approach is an adventure.
routrax - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

Lost valley (Cheyne Wears, Portland)
Winspit Quarry (Worth Matravers, Swanage)
Hedbury (Langton Matravers, Swanage)
The block (Battleship cliffs, Portland)

All of these have 4+ routes, easy to send the strongest climber up to setup a top rope.

Kevster - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to routrax:

But battleship block was polished 20 years ago!
Hedbury and winspit aren't so dissimilar. Though a few newer routes there have improved the low grade choices.
Fallen slab is nice, but the approach isn't the easy option for newbies.
Portland is funny for low grade imo. Either polished or the approach isn't always suitable. The newer routes are still ok for polish. Likes of bower, niche, sharbutts etc
I still think the ones below neddfields bouldering are good. You can reach most the top anchors from the quarry top, and there's barely a really tough route there.
routrax - on 16 Jul 2017
In reply to Kevster:

Yep, lower Dorset grades are a mixed bunch, especially on lead, and yes, of course the lower grades are polished, that's pretty normal., but as I said, if you have a stronger climber, all of those places I mentioned have easier grades and setting up a top rope should be trivial.

Lots of low grade fun to be had in Portland/Swanage

I'm a terrible sport climber, 6a at best, much prefer trad, but n the occasions i've been taking people outside for the first time, these are the places I've picked as the routes are short, not very exposed and generally have an amenable approach.
NigelHurst - on 17 Jul 2017
In reply to PhilWS:

Veranda at Battleship has some nice routes at lower grades

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