UKC

Hey guys,

First time poster here.
I'm looking for some advice.
My wife and I will be in El Chorro the first week of August for four or five days climbing.
We will have a car and will have regular kit and some bits of trad gear also.

As I'm sure its going to be VERY HOT at this time of year could anyone suggest some shaded crags or shaded areas with some easier climbs. We will be climbing 4's and 5's mainly.

Also, if anyone could suggest some of the easier multi-pitch routes in the area that would be great.

We plan to stop in DeCathalon in Malaga when we arrive to purchase a couple of bits. Does anyone know if the store near the airport is well stocked regarding climbing kit?
Cheers,
Gaelan

In reply to Gaelan Elliffe:

Rocabella

Me an my partner visited this crag in spring and rocabella had a decent amount of shade but I'm unsure what it would be like this time of year. There is climbing shop on el chorro that should have all you need
I hope that's a help

In reply to Gaelan Elliffe:

Desplomilandia has plenty of shaded sectors (most of it is very shaded from memory), grades there felt a bit soft in general compared to the rest of Chorro so you might find that some of the low 6's feel OK for you. Very early starts would be a good idea if you're climbing on sunny sectors. The Frontales have some fun MPs in lower grades - Amptrax is 6a but good, as is Valentine's Day. I recall a 4 or 4+ MP somewhere up a right-facing rib too but forget the name. This list might be of help: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1625

In reply to Gelli:

Rogellio is great at around 4+, with final pitches at 6a, 6a+ and 6b+, but a lot of people just ab before that point. Take 2 ropes or a 70 or you'll have to do some unroped downclimbing on the way down

It will be HOT anywhere on frontales!

In reply to Gelli:

Was there in April couple years ago weather was mixed but some hot sunny days

Frontalas Bajas, Los Albercones you can sit and belay under the shade of the pine trees, though if your climbing you end up climbing out of the shade, Sector Castrojo had shade first thing in the morning not sure how long that would last in August though.

Desplomilandia shaded most of the day from the guys and girls that climbed there.

Rocabella North Side shaded. And handy for Rocabella resturant a drink and snack after where we stayed for our week

In reply to Gelli:

IN regards to temperature, Gary posted a picture the other day of a thermometer that had exploded. So yeah, I think it's warm

In reply to Gelli:

If I was flying into Malaga and had a car and climbing kit, in August I would consider going to the Alpajurras. Its a lovely area. I have no idea what the climbing is like, but suspect it maybe worth researching Niguelas#maps Capileira#maps , if in El Chorro the Caminto is not what it was, however with a nice picnic it does make a good day out, but more in a walkers way than a climbers way, but a chilled bottle of wine by the river maybe a better bet than flogging your guts out at a crag in the baking sun.

In reply to J1234:


Softy

In reply to Gelli:

Will be hot. Desplomilandia is best bet for shade
Decathlon is very near airport ar Saint Julian
Leave car hire area. Pass brewery on your right, get in left lane of dual carriageway and take first left St Julian. Under bridge and take first main left , then in 200m you will see it

In reply to Gelli:

It will be hot,very very hot. Leave your trad rack,bring 70m rope and 15 draws,share one hold bag as you will not be needing many clothes,buy a rocfax,contact the Olive branch for accomodation negating need for sleeping bags,camping stuff even towels so cutting down on luggage. The pool there will be invaluable as will their local knowledge and excellent food. Enjoy Gary's banter,get thrashed at pool and have agood time.

In reply to Gelli:

perhaps try Torcal...its higher...and you have a car...best of luck but i doubt it will be overcast

In reply to Gelli:

Hey guys,

Thanks for the advice. We got some fun climbing done at Rocabella, Caliza and Cocina Caliente. We climbed at dusk and dawn to try and avoid the sweltering sun of 'Heatwave Lucifer'. We also followed some of your advice and chilled out and did some touristy stuff.

Its a fantastic climbing location which certainly lived up to its reputation. I'll certainly be back again, however not in the height of Summer.

We stayed at the Olive Branch and we would thoroughly recommend it for anyone who hasn't visited.

G