/ Systems Malfunction Cheedale

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
andyman666999 - on 02 Aug 2017

I would be grateful for anybody's advice for some beta on the above route.

I've tried it twice and cannot seem to figure out a sequence to get to the jug In they lip by the second bolt. I'm 5.10" and a friend of mine can just pop to the big hold from the break but he's 6ft2. Is there a more static way to gain the bigger upper holds? Sadly I've not seen anyone else working it but would love to put up some sort of a fight before accepting that I'm gonna get burned off by my mate ????

Cheers
Andrew
Post edited at 11:36
Alex@home - on 02 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:

Spent a while belaying a mate on it a while ago. He used a horrible looking hold for his right hand before getting the good holds with his left. He's recently bouldered 7b so I doubt it's an easy move.
That wasn't the bit that stopped him though
deacondeacon - on 02 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:
I'm the same height 5'10", but happy on big dynamic moves. There was defo some intermediate holds that could be used but I found it easier to just throw for the jugs. I seem to remember there was two moves after each other that were like this.
andyman666999 - on 02 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

I usually am, my mate said that I was close to the lip of the dish with my left hand. Going off the right side pull, maybe I've lost my contact strength/deadpoint stuff from lack of bouldering.
andyman666999 - on 02 Aug 2017
In reply to deacondeacon:

Did you do an all out dyno or was it more of a deadpoint and your feet come off?
mark20 - on 02 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:

I'm 5'11 and kept my feet on. My mate who is 5'6 (I think) jumped through
Its a bit blind so hard to hit, but fine once you get it
andyman666999 - on 02 Aug 2017
In reply to mark20:

Alright well that gives me some hope. Yeah I think it's because I can't even see what I am aiming for really. How high were your feet? Were they around the break ish ?
ads.ukclimbing.com
TonyM - on 03 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:

Having done it a few weeks ago, I'm not sure the dyno beta is the easiest way to reach the jug. You'll want to save energy for moves turning the lip. The jug is quite recessed so harder to latch without control.

The RH intermediate hold is pretty easily reached with a step up and layaway out from the big foot ledge. Unmissable as it has someone's prominent chalk dot on it (doubt rain will get under roof to wash it off). That RH hold is fine when you commit to using it by leaning out. Hop your feet up some more and then you can reach through with your LH for the jug. It's even quite good for the LH just below the jug, to enable you to go again if you've not quite reached far enough.

Should all make sense when you're there!
andyman666999 - on 04 Aug 2017
In reply to TonyM:

Hi, yeah I managed to do the move pretty much the way that you say last night. I also found a toe cam in a pocket for the left foot which helped a wee bit.
Definitely better beta than to dyno. Such a cool problem, it's pretty hard to work though.
Thanks for all the advice l, hope I'll be able to do it clean soon.
Cheers.
spidermonkey09 - on 04 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:
When I did it I'm pretty sure I had my feet in the break, right hand in a hold in the roof. Crucially my left hand wasn't holding anything which made it much easier for me to get it round the lip and latch the jug. Hope that makes some sort of sense, it was a few years ago! Good luck
TonyM - on 04 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:

Cool. Yep, I reckon I probably did the same toe cam with left foot too to give stability. Whilst working on a rope it's also worth getting a sequence that works for you for the top section. Enjoy!
snoop6060 - on 04 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:

I'm 5'5'' and my logbook reads: easy once you work out that you just jump. I think I jumped from a shit intermediate hold for my left and something good with my right. Full on dyno.
phardy - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to andyman666999:

I think you just need to accept that your mate will burn you off. I saw him on the crag the other day and he was looking strong.


Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.