UKC

Molly Thompson through to the finals!

In reply to alx:

No, she is only through to the women's final

In reply to alx:

Cool. She deserves it. Super talented climber and extremely strong.

There was an interview with Molly a few weeks ago with Grimer:
http://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-podcast/jcpc-034-molly-thompson-smith


Anyone know if there is a stream for the bouldering? As it's not an IFSC event it's not on their Youtube channel.

In reply to alx:

First Brit to make it through to a Lead World Cup final since Lucy Creamer in 2004. I wonder who the last guy was? Ian Vickers perhaps?

I could definitely see Jim Pope or Will Bosi making finals in the not too distant future. Edinburgh is just a month away.

Overall I thought Arco was pretty good. Shame that climbers didn't get higher on the final's routes but sounded like the heat and humidity were pretty dire.

Good to see Jain Kim take top spot again too. Well deserved after an inspired solution to the crux section.

I thought her performance put a question mark over the whole 6 minute rule too. As the only person to climb carefully enough to make it through the difficult section she could have been the only climber to top out in either round but was timed out and had to jump off. What a load of rubbish. Hardly a crowd pleasing way to take the win, stopped in her tracks by the new rules.

In reply to stp:

Judging by what was said in the athlete interviews I feel the heat may have made a massive difference, beyond what the setters had planned for. Unlike the shorter lead walls which suit themselves to the new faster bouldery style competition climbs the Arco wall is massive which could make it hard to set for without being a ladder until half-height.

Seeing Megos stumped and fall off by the first big move was a revelation, as was seeing Janja's higher risk climbing style punished by the tension move/iron cross.

In reply to alx:

It was a great shame to see Megos fall off that dyno low down after he was so dominant in the semi final round. Would have been great to see him win the event.