UKC

I went up to the roaches last Saturday which was my first outing on grit for nearly a year and only my third time on the grit
We started off on a Vdiff to warm up which is well beneath my grade but even on as a 2nd I didn't find my rhythm and when it came to my turn to lead the next pitch there was an unprotected hard start especially for the grade which I just didn't feel like committing to
We went onto a 3* Diff so I could get a lead in which went ok and I 2nd a HVD ok
But when I went to lead a S3c which once again had pretty much no protection (I probably would of decked out) once again I couldn't commit
We went over to another Diff which I led there was a little confusing as if went up right there was a chance I couldn't top out as I couldn't see the exit and on the left where there was a small manhole exit it required a commiting move (not a diff move for sure) and once again I backed off
I felt like sacking it for the day but considering my mate had been patient through my struggles I soldiered on and the afternoon got better with no more problems has anyone had a day like this and any suggestions how to shake off this mental block sooner

In reply to LJJ77:
I guess we all experience days like this but try not to let it ruin your day. I suppose you can't climb at your limit all the time due to mental/physical barriers on the day. I like to deal with it by dropping my grade a fair bit and just getting on easier routes or well protected routes. I always have off days but take advantage by just getting easier millage in and just making sure I am having fun.

I was out on Saturday and climbed really well for my standard. I managed a few new E1's and HVS's. I then went out on the Sunday and had a bit of a crap day, got sandbagged to hell on a HVS which scared me ever so slightly due to lack of gear. I decided to climb easier routes for the rest of the day and still managed to make a great day out of it.

I think its important you just keep at it even if you are not pushing yourself and try not give off negative vibes to your climbing partner as it can effect their climbing. I have experienced this a lot and always find that if the person I am climbing with is moaning or clearly annoyed at how they are climbing it can effect my day and I lose motivation or interest. I always try stay positive even though maybe inside i am annoyed to make sure its still a good day for both people. Its all about just having fun in my eyes, the routes will always be there so go back next time and I'm sure it will be a different story.

You could also second a few more routes before leading some to help get into the mind set if you are having an off day.

Hope this might help you in the future. Cheers!

In reply to LJJ77:
Ihave days like this and I'm sure everyone does.
Just try and remember that the doubt in climbing a route is what makes climbing great.
If the outcome was guaranteed before you left the ground it wouldn't be half as much fun. The routes where you fight through, controlling the fear and doubt, and topping out successfully are what makes it all worth it

In reply to LJJ77:

95% of the time. Most days end up with "I'm giving up climbing", but then I realise that leaves with less attactive options like heroin addiction and alcoholism and decide that it's probably preferable just to be shit at climbing.

In reply to LJJ77:

Following my last day of fearful punterism I spent the next day climbing bolted routes that would be harder than I could lead on trad, thus convincing myself I could still climb (a bit!).....seemed to work (a bit!!).

In reply to LJJ77:

'The afternoon got better with no more problems'

No problem! That's how most of my days go - I've just about always needed time to warm up/get into the groove/whatever

In reply to Jon Stewart:


This is pretty much my take on things. Although I did finally go on a diet.

In reply to LJJ77:

It's worth remembering that grit being short sharp outcrop climbing, takes a bit to get dialled into. I find Staffordshire grit is perhaps more nuanced than eastern grit for instance.

Rounded grit just takes a good bit of practice, stick at it.

Drop a grade or two and get some miles in.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


The two aren't mutually exclusive. Sadly.

In reply to LJJ77:

Stop looking at the things that you felt went wrong on the day and look at what went right - the afternoon got better for example. I try to never leave the crag thinking of the mistakes I made or how crap I was on such and such a route. At least you got on the climbs that didn't go well so that's a positive.

In reply to Steve Perry:

Thanks for all the positive comments guys
I looked at peoples comments on UKC for the routes I backed off the first one lots of people left the 2nd pitch also comments of bold and unprotected with a hold snapped off were mentioned so not the best for first lead of the day, the severe was green and no protection till nearly at the top so not the best again when my confidence was shaky and the diff well I had strayed onto a VS due to dodgy rockfax topo
But it's all learning for me and it was a good day despite a couple of low moments also to be fair to myself I pulled it together in the end and my mate enjoyed it too

In reply to LJJ77:

I've been bitten a few times on grit by thinking 'oh Ill just warm up on this mod', picking a particularly awkward route, having a nightmare and consequently thinking 'well if I can't even climb a 'ing mod, what chance do I have on something technical?'

It took me a while to realise that the solution is to be more selective with my choice of route, and warm up on things that are at least vaguely technical.

In reply to LJJ77:

Just trying to work out what the climbs were...
Diff - Raven rock gully
S 3a - Yong arete...??

Climbing is scary though - I put it down to the brain not wanting the body to be above a sheer drop, (it doesn't seem to care much what the grade is).

In reply to Danm79:

Spot on it was those two routes and the Vdiff warm up was Jeffcoats chimney

In reply to LJJ77:

Don't beat yourself up.

I recently visited the Roaches having very limited natural grit experience and having only lead up to HVS onsight beforehand. I was advised to drop two grades to get used to it. Ended up terrifying myself on Valkyrie (although please to have bagged Sloth afterwards). My partner leads up to E2 onsight and had to have a rope lowered to him on Valkyrie.

Looking at your logbook with your top onsight being HS I'd say you had a great day. HVD pretty much converts to S in todays money.