/ Kerouan bouldering - Brittany

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PeakDJ on 07 Sep 2017
I have a business trip to Brest planned next week and might manage half a day bouldering in Kerouan, as it's only 45 mins drive out of the city.

As I won't have much time, just wondering if anyone can provide info on good sectors with easy access close to the car, with a good range of problems in the 6s (font grades). I have one night staying in a hotel at Brignogan Plage, so if anyone knows any good areas close to the hotel that'd be brilliant, as I might then manage an additional early morning or late evening session.
Adrien - on 07 Sep 2017
In reply to PeakDJ:

I've yet to go but if you haven't got it yet you can download the main guidebook here: http://krimpadenn.fr/component/jdownloads/finish/9-kerlouan/65-les-blocs-de-kerlouan?Itemid=0 + another sector: http://krimpadenn.fr/component/jdownloads/finish/9-kerlouan/66-topo-riviere-version2?Itemid=0 It's all in French and doesn't look crystal clear to me but it's free (btw it's Kerlouan, not Kerouan).

The place looks wonderful but from the pictures I've seen the climbing looks quite repetitive and less fun than Font; feel free to report here when you're back to prove me wrong (or right)!

(If it rains, as it might, and you still want to get out, head south to walk along pointe de Pen-Hir or pointe de Dinan. Veryar'ch beach next to Pen-hir also has curious geological formations)
PeakDJ on 07 Sep 2017
In reply to Adrien:

Thanks! The topo will be useful for sure and the tip for Pen-Hir might also be great if it rains. I'm looking forward to checking the place out as from what I've seen it looks good...will let you know!

ian Ll-J - on 07 Sep 2017
In reply to PeakDJ:

It's a great place, but the free topo was next to useless so ended up just climbing whatever looked good, which was quite a refreshing approach not knowing grades. Another vote for Pen Hir it's like Go garth with bolts A few photos in my gallery...
ian caton on 07 Sep 2017
In reply to PeakDJ:
They are mostly below water at high tide remember.

Really good though.

Sod the guide just go looking.
Post edited at 20:20
WVRox - on 07 Sep 2017
In reply to PeakDJ:

It ranks along with 2001 A Space Odessy as one of life's disappointments. Go kayaking instead!
ian caton on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to WVRox:
Think you must have been there at high tide Steve . It's not font, but you can have a good time for a day or two.
Post edited at 07:11
WVRox - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to ian caton:

Love Brittany in general and maybe just expected more with talk a while back of a Rockfax guide.....and spoilt over the years with climbing at Mecca several times a week!
Jus - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to PeakDJ:

Kerouan is not very good! We spent a few days in the area and didn't find anything very good

The best bouldering we found was near the stunning Ploumanac'h. lighthouse Some really good stuff there (although not very much) around V0 to V6, I also some signs of chalk on some nails looking roof.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ploumanac%E2%80%99h+brittany&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X...

PeakDJ on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to Jus:

> Kerouan is not very good! We spent a few days in the area and didn't find anything very good

> The best bouldering we found was near the stunning Ploumanac'h. lighthouse Some really good stuff there (although not very much) around V0 to V6, I also some signs of chalk on some nails looking roof.


Looks a nice place, whether or not the climbing is brilliant. Thanks for the tip re Ploumanac'h
Pids - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to PeakDJ:

I spent two weeks there a few years ago, biking between bouldering spots, lovely area - loads of mixed bouldering, some on the beach, some "inland", never really found a topo/guide but just followed my nose - just watch for some of the landings

Some nice bits of bouldering along the whole north coast - this was a nice spot

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/6f/ad/ac/6fadac07dd964388058f0a04a085310b.jpg

PeakDJ on 12:40 Mon
In reply to Adrien:

> The place looks wonderful but from the pictures I've seen the climbing looks quite repetitive and less fun than Font; feel free to report here when you're back to prove me wrong (or right)!

Having spent just one evening wandering about doing a few problems close to Meneham, I thought it was a pretty good spot. Certainly no "Font by the sea" but good nonetheless. The location is pretty special and I imagine that it'd be a great place for a family trip in summer...great beaches with boulders strewn around all over the place. The problems I did were quite varied...a roof and a couple of slabs/walls. The rock is fairly sharp and not too skin-friendly - similar to Dartmoor granite. Overall - some decent bouldering in a truly stunning location. I stayed at the "Hotel de Mer" in Brignogan Place - it's got boulders in the "garden" and is a 10 min drive from the main Meneham areas.

tombeasley - on 13:03 Mon
In reply to PeakDJ:

Nice one, I visited with the family a few years ago and thought it was ok. There is so much bouldering still to be developed that it makes it hard to seek out the better areas and problems. Grades if I remember correctly were a little stiff, worth noting as some of the areas in the topo are quite spread out. I wouldn't go there specifically to boulder but certainly worth a visit if you are in the area for sure.
PeakDJ on 15:19 Mon
In reply to tombeasley:

> There is so much bouldering still to be developed that it makes it hard to seek out the better areas and problems. Grades if I remember correctly were a little stiff, worth noting as some of the areas in the topo are quite spread out. I wouldn't go there specifically to boulder but certainly worth a visit if you are in the area for sure.

I didn't have a topo with me but knew roughly where to find the main areas from looking at the online topos. Consequently, can't comment on grades. I found it easy enough to find chalked-up problems by the village around Meneham - enough to keep me busy for an evening session.

As you say - not the best venue for a pure climbing trip, but definitely worth taking a pad, shoes and chalk if in the area for work/holiday.


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