/ 6 bolts up Right Wall ,,,

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AP Melbourne on 08 Sep 2017
,,, one on every slightly bold route on the grit and North Stack Wall on Gogarth too.
Not that I'm a climber any more but I do occasionally visit two indoor bouldering gyms. Point am raising is that when 'us' old f*rts are gone - along with our long-standing ethics, can we trust the few 'plastic pullers' who 'boldly go' where generations of others have to uphold said traditions?
Just asking [and will give myself the 1st 'dislike' too].
Night, night.
29
Andy Say - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:
I think we can. You pessimistic old fart.
Post edited at 18:40
1
Pekkie - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Not while 'Do or Dai' Lampard's still kicking. I remember him standing up in the Vaynol ( a few pints to the better) and proclaiming 'anyone who wants to put a bolt in Right Wall will have to come past me!'
1
snoop6060 - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:
Calum musket is local and surely cannot be considered a plastic puller and has about 90 years left in him, he looks about 12. Heard he got married or summat. Gretna green presumably. Nevertheless, plenty of young trad monsters in that neck of woods to carry the torch. I'd worry not Andy.
Post edited at 19:24
jezb1 - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to snoop6060:

I've just left the Beacon, where he is.. pulling plastic ;)

Plenty of people round here climbing hard trad, I think RW is safe for now.
John Clinch (Ampthill) - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

I think that the issue for the next generation will be a willingness to remove the polish from classics
Bulls Crack - on 08 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Maybe 10 to be on the safe side? It's not slate ffs
AP Melbourne on 09 Sep 2017
In reply to Andy Say:

> I think we can. You pessimistic old fart.

Ha!, Classic Andy Say so phew, that's a relief!
Thanks.
bouldery bits - on 09 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

You lot started this Bolting malarkey.
Don't blame us.

Dan Arkle - on 09 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

There are already bolts on Right Wall! And everyone just ignores them.




(Old aid type bolts above the start. I'm amazed they haven't been chopped.)
ianstevens - on 09 Sep 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:

6 bolts is far to generous for a slate route
AP Melbourne on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

> You lot started this Bolting malarkey.

> Don't blame us.

Hero to Zero with the first strike of the hammer [Glenn Robbins, just now].
Ha!
AP Melbourne on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Dan Arkle:

> There are already bolts on Right Wall! And everyone just ignores them.

Quite correct there Dan. Hamish MacInnes placed them from memory. They're on the Direct Start to 'Precious' wot I did the 2nd ascent of donkeys ago.


Big Ger - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Six bolts on right wall, and it's still too f#cking hard for me to climb.
AP Melbourne on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Big Ger:

> Six bolts on right wall, and it's still too f#cking hard for me to climb.

Ahh stop yer sookin' Big Ger or I'll have to downgrade you to Small Ger.
The slog up the scree's harder but you're obliged to scream "IT'S ONLY FIVE CEEEE' when you take the whipper [Chris Gore, 4th ascent].
Pekkie - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

> Ahh stop yer sookin' Big Ger or I'll have to downgrade you to Small Ger.

> The slog up the scree's harder but you're obliged to scream "IT'S ONLY FIVE CEEEE' when you take the whipper [Chris Gore, 4th ascent].

Or, if you wanted a really exciting day out you could solo it.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1872795242981679&set=g.271570429959569&type=1&th...
paul__in_sheffield - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

Andy, thought your old mate Jerry called the cromlech an 'old and outdated crag' after he soloed everything worth doing in an afternoon. I think you might have had the odd day out soloing up there too, so surely not hard enough for bolts ;-)
You got a mighty 23 dislikes, doing well, youth. Paul
kevin stephens - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

When Pete Livesey did the first ascent, were Friend 2.5 available for the crucial placement for the step left below the girdle ledge?

Most plastic pullers shy away from most bold proper climbing with the exception of a few high kudos ticks, that's why the A55 sport climbing guide outsold Gogarth North
Pekkie - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:
> When Pete Livesey did the first ascent, were Friend 2.5 available for the crucial placement for the step left below the girdle ledge?

hi Kevin. It is highly unlikely that Pete Livesey would have had Friends in 1974. Didn't they arrive in about 1978?
Post edited at 22:00
Ian Parsons - on 11 Sep 2017
In reply to kevin stephens:

As Pekkie says Friends didn't appear on the market until early 1978, and half sizes followed a few [2 or3?] years later. However; the relevant pocket, or one very close to it, accommodated a very good endwise Chouinard Hexentric - probably size 7 or 8. I've no idea whether or not Livesey used one at the time but they were certainly available; home-grown alternatives - Clog Hex 6/7 perhaps - might also have fitted.
AP Melbourne on 11 Sep 2017
In reply to Pekkie:

Ahh Pekkie that link's brill mate, ta for sharing, have bookmarked it for future nostalgia.
I learnt footwork there and loved the place despite being repeatedly shown up by Phil D, the Healey bros and Mike O. Kinnel, even Pete Chad & Lew B. blew me out of the water though in my defense I *was* trialing the first ever grey Scarpa Cragratz which were completely unsuitable.
AP Melbourne on 11 Sep 2017
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:
> You got a mighty 23 dislikes, doing well, youth. Paul

Yeah Paul. I gave myself the 1st one and its up to 25 as I type this now.
There's no pleasin' some miserable sods who anonymously lurk behind their computer screens without contributing sh*t on here for everyone's amusement [or serious debate].
The '11yrs old lad in a dress' thread had well over 3000 reads last time I checked and I copped a right old shellacking for contentiously 'lighting the blue touchpaper', lobbing it in and toddling off to bed.
Speaking of, nanna-nap time. Byee.
Pekkie - on 11 Sep 2017
In reply to AP Melbourne:

> Ahh Pekkie that link's brill mate, ta for sharing, have bookmarked it for future nostalgia.

Ahhh, Andy. Nostalgia. Not what it used to be.
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