/ Scafell Crag- Central Buttress drying time

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
MusicalMountaineer - on 10 Sep 2017
The forecast (so far) is looking promising for next weekend. Would love a go at Central Buttress before it gets too cold. Does anyone have any idea how long it ideally needs to dry to be in decent nick?
Thanks
Rick Graham on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:

Always worth a punt. Good to be on Scafell in any conditions.

Even with a good forecast I would guess a reasonable wind will be necessary for a hope of being dry enough.

Put your chances at 50/50.
Mark Eddy - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:
There's been rain everyday in the Lakes for as long back as I can remember and currently lashing down. Yesterday Scafell crag was awash with waterfalls and it's already hat & gloves weather up there. Easier routes where moving quick on wet rock is possible are worth considering instead. Pikes crag, Napes on Gable, etc

Mickledore this week: https://www.facebook.com/ScafellPikeAscents/?hc_ref=ARSYArjXs14Kbhn2XGlshX7KMUf_1TY1iBCGkektrmwcLFWc...
Post edited at 11:25
Dave Cumberland - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:

Think you need to be realistic about the weather. It is September, the power of the sun has gone, we are near the autumn equinox. It is cold, wet, very wet, very windy and all the high crags are soaked, slimy, sunless and unwelcoming. It has been wet and showery for quite a long period. August apart from the last week or so was heading to being one of the coolest ever in the Lakes. As was suggested, your only hope would be for a long dry warm autumnal spell (no sign yet) and it will still even then be cool on Scafell, but Pikes Crag and The Napes by virtue of their sunny disposition can be OK at short notice if the weather picks up.
The sun controls everything.
Tophet wall gets sun 10-2pm even on midwinters day.
DC
Jon Stewart - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:
> Always worth a punt.

Very rarely worth a punt.

Good to be on Scafell in any conditions, as long as you like hillwalking in the rain. For rock climbing, go when it's in condition and you'll have a day's climbing you'll remember forever.

Looking at the forecast, i give the he chances 2%. It takes several days of hot sun to come into condition and that ain't on the cards.
Post edited at 13:55
Goucho on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:

> The forecast (so far) is looking promising for next weekend. Would love a go at Central Buttress before it gets too cold. Does anyone have any idea how long it ideally needs to dry to be in decent nick?

> Thanks

About 9 weeks, as long as it doesn't rain in between
Rick Graham on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Goucho:
> About 9 weeks, as long as it doesn't rain in between

Two types of "wetness" predominantly affect climbing on Lakes mountain crags.

Seepage from ground water and rain wetting.

The latter can disappear in a few minutes/hours on some crags especially if the holds are clean and lichen free.

The former will not affect the crux on the front face of the flake of CB.

Depends if you are a half glass full or empty type of person.

I still think a determined climber has a 50/50 chance on CB if we get a couple of clear breezy days but might need a grade in hand as well.
Post edited at 17:59
Goucho on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:
My tongue was somewhat in my cheek, Rick
Post edited at 19:57
Jon Stewart - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Rick Graham:

I can sort of see your approach, but if conditions are shit (clag, dampness, seepage, windy, cold) which is nearly all the time on Scafell, why the hell would you drive all the way round there and slog 90mins up the hill when you could go somewhere which is warm and dry and nearer? It's an amazing crag, but is climbing it shit condition good? Each to their own I suppose.
Jon Stewart - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Dave Cumberland:
> Tophet wall gets sun 10-2pm even on midwinters day.

Tophet Wall in winter! ROFL as they say. I went on what was promised to be a beautiful summer's day this July. We got to Kern Knotts, which was a bit damp but climbable, although there was a breeze and my partner said she was too cold to belay. We went up the scree to Tophet Wall and it was baltic. We'd gone up there in the first place to do The Vikings, and after umming and ahhing for a bit, I said, "yeah, it's freezing but we've walked for miles up here and it's not raining, this is the one opportunity to do the route, I think you should get on it." She did, and a fine effort it was too - unlike me, she loves that kind of climbing. Obviously by the time she'd belayed I was on the cusp of hyperthermia and the mist was rolling up the fellside, swirling around the crag, making it tremendously atmospheric, and also rather damp. Seconding the route was an absolute nightmare. Wet, and filthy, and my whole body had gone numb.

And this was "a nice summers day" in July. Tophet wall in winter...

Mountain crags: either go in a heatwave, or have a shit time.
Post edited at 21:40
MFB - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

For god sake Stewart man up
Jon Stewart - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to MFB:
I'll accept your insult more gracefully when it's *you* I'm following up the The Vikings in the clag. Fancy it tomorrow?
Post edited at 21:45
Dave Cumberland - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> And this was "a nice summers day" in July. Tophet wall in winter...
I think you are confirming what I have just written an article about - that in the past 30-40 years, it has got colder in the Summer - that is my perception anyway as I wander around and climb here and there, and sniff the air.
We are headed in the wrong direction from the glory days of climbing in shorts, T-shirts, bareback an' all.
The photos prove it!
I do hope it changes, otherwise 20-25 years of cool wet Summers are going to continue wiping out our routes and our crags.
They are deserted enough as it is.
Nevertheless, you can still do Tophet wall in the sun on January 1st and many other dry routes too, but maybe just not Sept. 2017!.
DC
MFB - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
You make a good point, Vikings out of my league I'm afraid, sorry Jon
Post edited at 21:53
Jon Stewart - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to MFB:

> Vikings out of my league I'm afraid, sorry Jon

You're not missing much, it's a bloody 'orrible route (unless you're an offwidth pervert).
Goucho on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Vikings on a cold, windy damp day - impressive stuff Jon. I wouldn't fancy those moves into the niche on the second pitch under those conditions.

I reckon it's absolute top end E3, borderline E4, even on a warm sunny day.
Jon Stewart - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Goucho:

> Vikings on a cold, windy damp day - impressive stuff Jon.

Wasn't me that did it!
MFB - on 10 Sep 2017
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Off width - I think we may have reached a point of agreement

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=5455
Post edited at 22:04

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.