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Climbing Shoe Frustration

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 JohnO1978 22 Sep 2017
As per the title..

I have used a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Blancos in size 9.5 now for some time however finding a replacement for them is becoming quite hard work. I recently bought some Anasazi VCS which at first felt comparable however they have now stretched and are not giving me much confidence with my feet, there is now room at the front and at the heel. I also tried La Sportiva Miura VS which I just couldn't get on with. Ideally looking for an all rounder for sport around 6b, trad VS/HVS and Boulder V3-V4. I know there are new Blanco's out so would be interested to see how people find they compare to the old ones.

If there are any other die hard original Blanco wearers out there who have moved on I would like to hear your opinions especially.

Cheers.
 nacnud 22 Sep 2017
In reply to JohnO1978:
You need to go to a decent shop and try on a bunch, no advice on here will beat that.

You could try Pinks or Lace up Muria or Vapor VS but I've got no idea about the shape of your foot so?
Post edited at 10:47
 MischaHY 22 Sep 2017
In reply to JohnO1978:

New blancos are reportedly even better than the old ones. Get to a shop and try some on - or order several pairs online and send back the ones you don't like/that don't fit. Often works out cheaper if you've got the capital to order several pairs initially.
OP JohnO1978 22 Sep 2017
In reply to nacnud:

Agree with you about trying them on, problem is some feel like they fit the bill in the shop but they then stretch or dont perform well on the wall.
OP JohnO1978 22 Sep 2017
In reply to MischaHY:

I think I am going to have to try the new Blancos at some point..Thanks
 MischaHY 22 Sep 2017
In reply to JohnO1978:

I've been informed they'll stretch around a 1/2 size over time. Just FYI for sizing.
 HeMa 22 Sep 2017
In reply to JohnO1978:

Lined syntetics, like 5.10 don't really strech at all, but mold.

Oddly enough, After testing numerous brands only 5.10s are true to their size. Meaning I always get eur 42s and they've always been spot on. Not so with Sportivas (sizes have ranged from 39.5 to 41.5).

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