UKC

Hello

I was at Stanage today & amongst other things I did Mississipi Buttress Direct. I have done this route 2 or 3 times but it will be at least 10 years since I did last.

I noticed that there is a large block which is quite loose as you move right after the initial crack. It is the trapezoid block with a point on the right end approx 5m from the ground. I can't remember this been loose in the past. How long has it been loose?

I suspect at some point it will become dangerous. Obviously I was not in the best position to see/experiment to see how loose it actually was but it moves when pressure is put on either end. I thought I would post here for discussion & for information

Regards
Andy

In reply to Andy Saxby:

Been loose for yonks. It'll be grand.

Tell you what though, it's not one of my favourite routes at all. When I'm a-pottering, I tend to do the Variant, which has lovely satisfying moves rather than awkward/bunched/bulge-pushing-into-your-face move that peter out into an anti-climax. Not deserving of its reputation at all, that one.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

How long is yonks?

In reply to Andy Saxby:

Donkey's years

In reply to Pedro50:

Funny don't remember it been loose before at all & generally have a good memory for this type of thing. Could be wrong or it could be worse now.

In reply to Andy Saxby:

Be honest Andy. You broke Stanage, didn't you.

In reply to Andy Saxby:

Sorry I was just defining yonks. Apologies for hijack.

In reply to Pedro50:

No problem Pedro

In reply to gribble:

Yes, also responsible for Brexit & the lack of world peace????

In reply to Andy Saxby:

If the hat fits....!

In reply to gribble:

Find out what size it is????

In reply to Andy Saxby:
I reckon I've been climbing it fairly regularly for going on 10 years. I tend to notice, and get upset when people break Stanage. Never got face on about this route, and I'm aware of the rocking block near the start, so it must be OK.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

John

Firstly my post was intended to inform because I was not aware it was loose & neither my partner or another friend remember it being loose.

Secondly I did not break Stanage as you say it has been loose for a time

Thirdly my replies to Gribble were intended as humour as his response may have been in the first place

Finally I have not got a face on at all as I say it was intended as information

Sorry if I have upset you in any way

Regards
Andy

In reply to Andy Saxby:

Misinterpreted my post? I don't think either of us have got face on due to the rocking block 5m up on MBD. You seem mildly concerned, whereas I am blase. (Still don't know how to do the e-accute-accent, sorry).

In reply to Jon Stewart:

John

Fair enough, glad you are OK. I agree it is difficult to to get the point you are trying to make across in a forum like you would in a conversation. As you correctly identify I was mildly concerned for others in the future, which may well be unfounded.

However once some years ago there was a larger loose block on Autumn Flakes at Bosigran. which could not possibly come out in my judgement. However I know it could because it did a few weeks later when friend of mine was climbing the route. Interestingly he also thought it could not come out as he was climbing past it, but it did. I only mention this so you might see why I posted in the first place.

Anyway enough of this for today as it's time for bed for me

Regards
Andy

In reply to Jon Stewart:

é - Hold down Alt and type 0233 - works in most applications.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Yep. I've done it once, and it's not on my 'want to do it again' list. I don't get why so many people love it.

In reply to Rob Davies:

Even easier to hold down Alt Gr and type e

ééééééééééééééééééééééééé

In reply to Jon Stewart:

do you mean Mississippi Variant Direct? Mississippi Variant still has the awkward crux of the VS IIRC but with some rather nice climbing beyond that. I quite like both roues tbh.

In reply to radddogg:


Ta. I'm also niave to how to do the two little dots...

In reply to Jon Stewart:

..

Hope that helps.

In reply to CurlyStevo:


I've done Variant Direct a couple of times without a rope, sketchily. Sometimes when I've done it *with* a rope it's felt like I might fall off, so not a potterer for me, that one. I don't think the original has much of a crux, but on the Variant, you do miss out the most awkward bits and get to do some brilliant climbing with a fun layback followed by swinging out on a juggy rail - way more cool and fun.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Hold Alt and press F4

In reply to radddogg:


I've never heard of anyone doing Mississippi Variant that way.

In reply to pasbury:


Indeed! That is the hidden sequence to Verandah Buttress, that. Shame on you for letting the secret slip out.

In reply to radddogg:

Not when you've already memorised not just Alt 0233 but all the other occasionally useful numerical codes for accents, etc.:

é ê è ø ç ¾ ü ñ

and so on.