UKC

Hey,

I was wondering what people use for bivying in the spring/summer in the Alps. What type of sleeping bag/bivy sack etc. I'm looking to get into more commiting routes and I'm not entirely sure what equipment I need. Also, huts (especially in Switzerland) are expensive. So let me know!

Thanks,

Jelle

In reply to Jellington:

How long is your piece of string?

Are you looking for warm cosy sleeping right through to when the sun hits the rock because it's predominantly a rock route, or just half sleep /shiver until 1 or 2am and everything is frozen solid before heading off. Horses for courses, just don't make it any heavier or luxurious than is necessary. Of course horses don't climb, but tbey do get handicapped with weights, just like many alpinists who carry much more kit than they need.

In reply to summo:
The half sleep/shiver until 1 or 2am sounds about right. Looking to get into face climbing in the coming 2 years so getting up early is gonna be usual. There´´´´ are just so many sleeping bags I dont know which one would be preferable.

In reply to Jellington:
Hi, i have once asked this here and then put it to the test with a few combinations around the 3000m alt.

It all depends on your body first and foremost so adjust to your needs. And weather depending.

Bivy bag: Lightweight but most importantly breathable eg hunka

Mat: pretty good idea to have a foam mat with an air mattress on top in case of rupture. Nothing fancy but obviously something lightweight. I used a thermarest foam mat cut down to about 3/4 length with a 3/4 length air mattress on top to cut down on bulk/weight, as you can always put your feet on/in your bag so they are off the floor.

Sleeping bag: depends on fillpower but a 300gish of down weight bag is fine with your down jacket on underneath. I carry quite a heavy down jacket incase of emergencies which is pretty much a lifesaver in a lot of bad situations. I also have a pair of down booties if you are susceptible to cold feet, although im not sure on their efficiency as you have to have warm feet in the first place.

As i said its down to personal preference so if you get chance try a few different options without pushing it too far.

For me:

300g 900fill bag, foam mat, air mat, heavy down jacket is 100% good night sleep.

300g 900fill bag, foam mat, light down jacket is just on the edge of a having full nights sleep.


p.s: another thing to take into consideration is if you can stash the gear for a return trip or if you are doing a traverse.

In reply to Jellington:

I got myself a Nunatak down quilt for alpine bivis, and although I've yet to use it for that purpose yet it's been fantastic in every other situation. Very light, packs to nothing and I'm confident it'd be warm enough for an average summer alpine bivi. Might be worth looking at, especially if you already take a warm jacket with you.

In reply to tingle:
Hi, thanks for your reply.
That still sounds like alot of extra weight to carry, not to mention the costs.
I did some looking around and the half sleeping bags caught my eye. Combining this with a down or synthetic belay jacket would seem perfect for me. Or is this too cold?
For example, this sleeping bag:
https://www.phdesigns.co.uk/alpine-ultra-down-half-sleeping-bag-pied-deleph...
a simple sleeping mat seems just fine, don't know about the air mat.

In reply to Jellington:
This is what I used to sleep on the glacier under the grand capucin in August, was clear and cold with a hard freeze overnight.

Alpkit Hunka XL bivvy bag
Thermarest z-light sol foam mat (cut to 2/3 length)
PHD Hispar 300 (-5 rated 300g/950fp)
Mountain Hardware Ghost Whisperer down jacket

We were up at 2am, didn't get the greatest sleep but that was more down to poor stacking of the rope under my legs (and a very cold rock i couldn't be arsed moving) rather than the sleep system. If I was doing that again I'd take exactly the same with the possible addition of a pair of thermal tights. (just had socks and softshell breeks on my lower half, had a baselayer, microfleece and the down jacket on the top). Hope that helps.