UKC

Hello!

I need some new shoes after catapulting my old ones off St Bees, not a good day.

I have worn Evolv Shamans for about 5 years, they fit like a glove but they've stopped making the good orange ones. I think there's one more pair knocking about on the internet but I'm looking for other shoes that fit similar.

I have wide feet and mostly boulder so definitely need downturns preferably with the bump thing in the toe box.

Scarpa and Teniya (?! Not spelt like that) aren't great as they're too narrow and the heel is too high.

Anyone had any tries with the new Sportiva or Evolvs that have come out recently?

Cheers.

In reply to apd:
Sorry to hear about the loss of your shoesm. Sportiva are significantly slimmer than the Scarpas in my experience.

Perhaps 5.10 Hiangles or blackwings perhaps?

I have little experience of Evolv so cannot help you there.

In reply to bouldery bits:

Hi,

Ooo never thought of 5.10s good idea! I will look into it!

In reply to apd:

It must change model to model as I found eVolvs painfully narrow but much happier in Scarpas.

In reply to apd:

have a look at the Andrea Boldrini's (spelling!!). i've heard they're are a wide fit. model Apache i think.

In reply to apd:

IME scarpas fit a wide toe box, and narrow heel. Evolvs are a standard width. But that does vary model to model slightly.
Maybe look at the sportiva skwama, that's fairly wide.

In reply to apd:

I’ve got fairly hefty feet and I love solutions.

Got some skwamas to see what they where like and they are a lot narrower.

Definitely recommend solutions or miura vs!

In reply to apd:

Well worth checking out HiAngles to see if they fit.

In reply to apd:

I too climb in those orange evolv’s which fitted unbelievably well (stocked up on like 4 pairs in my size, down to my last set ).

I’ve found that women’s fit Scarpa stuff fits me really well, but doesn’t have the ‘love bump’ under your toes, which is an evolv only thing I think.

La Sportiva doesn’t work for me, nor does 5:10 as they seem to either be really baggy around the toes and heel or way too tight. Saying that, the women’s hi-angles were a pretty good fit, but I wouldn’t want to wear them for a whole day out whilst I’d happily do that in the Shamans.

What’s wrong with the new style ones? They seem a bit more padded but are basically the same shape.

In reply to apd:

LS Futuras might be worth trying?

I have a pair that I just use for bouldering. Downturned, comfy (relatively), have a love bump, easy on and off with the natty lacing system, decent heel...

They stretch though so buy 'em fairly tight.

In reply to apd:

I have very wide and high volume feet, the shoes that have worked for me are:

La Sportiva Katana Lace
La Sportiva Solutions
Andrea Boldrini Apache 5
5.10 Quantum’s

The Sportiva’s need a lot of breaking in for me. Only one of the above has a “bump”!

Yet to try the Kataki, to see if anything like the Katana lace. Would be interested to hear from anyone who has tried them.

As others have said, 5.10 are generally wide in some but not all models.

For some reason I seem to have big toe dead space when I try on Scarpa’s. Though Vapours are pretty wide, they just don’t fit me.

In reply to apd:

Ocun ozone plus, they are specifically designed for wide feet. I've been really impressed with mine.