UKC

Belay device recommendations

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 marky 16 Apr 2018

Best trad climbing belay device for general use and abseiling?

 jimtitt 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

ATC XP

 Andy Johnson 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

DMM Mantis

 olddirtydoggy 16 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

A Petzl Reverso or DMM Pivot will allow you to use guide mode which can be quite useful sometimes. I use the Petzl.

In reply to marky:

If you want guide mode then a dmm pivot is excellent. 

 alanblyth 17 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

+1 for the Pivot, I also regularly use a GriGri for sport.

 
 Roberttaylor 17 Apr 2018

ATC XP over the Petzl Reverso, definitely. XP has a hhol at the back big enough to move the screwgate of a big HMS krab through which the Reverso does bot, also from having used both devices for about two years each the reverso quickly develops burrs where the krab taps it while belaying, these then become a knife-like cutting edge.

 Steven AT 17 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

Reverso or Pivot for multipitch/trad for sure. Nothing else is as good with half ropes IMO. 

In reply to Roberttaylor:

Agreed, I wouldn't buy another Reverso for this reason. Wore down to sharp edge really quickly.

Post edited at 23:29
 tehmarks 17 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

Bucking the trend, I've had a Reverso since the Reverso3 was released, and I've had my current one since 2011. Can't say I've ever had an issue with sharp edges or burrs that have needed filing.

1
 gravy 18 Apr 2018
In reply to tehmarks:

Same here - well used reverso, no sharp edges.

 Andy Say 18 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

Marky,

Re another thread.  Don't get one that helps you break.

 springfall2008 19 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

DMM Mantis - it works on smaller half ropes up to larger singles and it's really light.

 

 Tigger 19 Apr 2018
In reply to marky:

If you want guide mode I'd get a DMM Pivot if not a Black Diamod ATC XP is more durable imo (regret giving mine away).


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