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Recommendations for easy, single pitch Lake trad

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anonymous123 04 May 2018

Going to the Lakes next weekend; decided to try some trad. I've only had one day of instruction, so I'll keep it to very easy, single pitch, well-protected climbs. Can anyone recommend some good crags to start? (I'll be using a single rope). Proximity to good camping spot/pub preferred. Cheers!

 nickcj 04 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

Long scar is probably best for what you're after.

I'd avoid Lower scout as it is not well protected for trad leading.

Glaciated Slab in Borrowdale is also good.

Or Diamond Crag in Eskdale, close to. Outward Bound. 

 C Witter 04 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

If you have a car, you could try  Long Scar, accessed via Wrynose Pass. It has some good quality single-pitch routes on beautiful rock. Highly recommended. Given your sport grades, you could probably build confidence on "extreme walks" and then work up the grades a little, within your comfort zone. Black Crag, next door, is also excellent, but some of the routes are harder to protect due to the compact quality of the rock.

If you did a day at Long Scar and it all went well and you felt confident enough to build solid belays, you could camp the night in Great Langdale, by the pub, then try some easy multipitch, as there are good, easy routes on Upper Scout and Raven Crag, as well as some easy climbs on the mountain crags. Tip: if you're less confident on rope work and belays, try to start out on routes with generous belay ledges (study guide book).

If you're going to Raven, be careful of the descents, as they are treacherous. A longer walk or an abseil might be preferable, especially if with a less experienced partner.

Hope you have fun,
C

 

 Jamie Wakeham 04 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

A very gentle intro would be Church Crag - tiny walk-in, short routes, bolted belays.  The only thng is that the slabbier routes aren't overly well-protected - they're not gearless, but not what you'd call well-protected!  It's obvious from the ground what has gear and what doesn't.

 GrahamD 04 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

I’d have thought something like Wodens face in Borrwdale would fit the bill, if I’m remembering the place right

 Mark Eddy 04 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

Another venue worth checking out is Steel Knotts Bluff in Borrowdale. An easy and pleasant walk form the Hollows farm campsite. Good single pitch climbing and bolted belays at the top.

 Tom Valentine 04 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

Grey Crag Buttermere.

Great pub and campsite, excellent choice of routes, solid rock, unbeatable situation  but a bit of a walk. Don't let the last point put you off because it is perfect for your needs.

 stewart murray 05 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

All good suggestions. As C said you could have a day at Long Scar and if you're feeling confident after that process to an easy multi-pitch - Middlefell Buttress would be a good choice. Belay ledges are big, line is easy to follow and you walk off by scrambling up to the path back to the valley.

In Borrowdale, some of the routes on Brown Slabs at Shepherd's Crag cam be done in 1 pitch. Also Jackdaw Ridge is an easy multi-pitch with ample belays.

While Grey Crag, Buttermere is one of the best crags in the Lakes for lower grade climbs, they aren't single pitch.

anonymous123 05 May 2018

Thanks for all the suggestions folks! Much appreciated. Lots of good ideas I'm sure.

 Tom Valentine 08 May 2018
In reply to stewart murray:

Poor reading on my part

 stewart murray 09 May 2018
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Wasn't meant as a criticism Tom. I agree Grey Crag is brilliant and ideal for lower grade multipitch. Had some great days there.

 Rog Wilko 09 May 2018
In reply to GrahamD:

> I’d have thought something like Wodens face in Borrwdale would fit the bill, if I’m remembering the place right

Very disconcerting place for a novice leader, in my opinion. The rock is often hideously polished and the gear placements either hard to use, hard to find or non-existent. Fact is the Lakes is poorly endowed with the kind of crag the OP is looking for.

 purkle 10 May 2018
In reply to anonymous123:

I liked it up here:

Black Crag (Wrynose)

A few easy routes in a really nice situation which is not too hot. Lovely rock, grippy, I found lots of easy placements on the easy routes I did.

Edit: I am by no means a lakes expert. May not be the best place. Just somewhere I enjoyed at v easy grades in a very non-intimidating situation. Easy descent.

Post edited at 11:00

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