UKC

What's the best kind of glue or cement for gluing on holds? I was told you can find something in Screwfix but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. Thanks

I can't help feeling a bit more information is required here. Gluing what type of hold to what type of surface? 

Gluing a broken hold back in place on limestone. The rock/hold is about 9 inches long maybe weighs about a 1lb.

same stuff you use to glue the bolts in?

at least that's what we do here, so hilti HIT-HY-200-A, but I'm sure there are numerous other similar solutions...

Believe that this is popular https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sikaflex-ebt-all-weather-sealant-clear-300m... maybe the grey version for limestone?

Sikadur is your friend.

Out of the box suggestion. Leave it off and regrade the climb...

Hopefully Jim Titt will pick up on this thread. 

I seem to remember Sika structural adhesive being used at (ahem) crags back in the 80s and 90s. I think it was called Sikabond. Couldn’t see it on Screfix, but maybe there’s another manufacturer of something similar.

Thanks.

I have considered that but in this case I think it would diminish the quality of the route by turning it into something much harder and more of a one move wonder.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fip-300sf-polyester-styrene-free-resin-3...

I've used a two part resin similar to this in the past. It seemed to work pretty well and was grey and the right sort of texture when it drugged.

Peak bolt fund should be able to provide materials and assistance if needed. drop me an email and we can arrange something.

Hi Steve, if you you need a small volume of glue then you can grab some of the dregs I got in the bolt fund tubes. I may have an expired tube that should not be used for bolts but will be fine on holds. Ask Ben how to use it as he got some off me for the Kinsey route.

This is a flexible sealant adhesive.

Sika is of course a brand that in days gone by produced a two part resin in separate tubs. Sika has for some reason become the generic name like Hoover but now we have Dyson.

There are a variety of brands that now produce resins in an easy to use two part tube with a spiral nozzle that mixes the parts together. You don't have to be so carefull selecting a resin for glueing holds as you do for bolts but there are know issues with polyester and alkaline limestone. 

There are other factors like viscosity, gel time and colour to consider which would rule out Hilti re500 for a start. 

Me? Never glued a hold on in my life

However, the preferred product has always been Sikadur as it is one of the few epoxies specifically made for gluing concrete and stone, cures to cement grey colour and is thick enough to build up holds with. The one to use is Sikadur 31 CF but it only comes in tins and you have to mix it properly.

Most of the chemical mortars for installing bolts are poor for actually gluing things on but if the surface area is large enough they might work, Sikadur "sticks" between about 3 and 5 times better than the normal resins we use. Alternatively for small jobs/one-offs then just normal Araldite comes in more convenient sizes.

Normally I just leave broken holds off, outdoors is not a climbing gym to be manipulated to suit climbers and is anyway in a continous state of change.

Is this for cry of despair at chredach Cornice?

Yep. The hold has been loose for at least few days (according so someone I spoke to there). After a couple of tries I noticed the crack around the block had got bigger and it pulled straight out easily.

It's the good hold you go for from the difficult moves just above the first roof and kneebar rest. It's all in one piece and should glue back nicely.

A good plan in general but this is Peak Limestone, where entropy is voracious and where most routes are too hard already!

The use of bolt resin is tried and tested on Peak limestone from crimpers to microwave ovens.

The only holds that have fallen off my routes are the ones I did not glue or they broke away not at the bond. The added advantage of this stuff is the neat end product, the joint or infill can be stippled down with a chalk ball. 

Looks a lot better than the Sika/araldite scars of the 80s.

I thought it might be.  

It had been very wobbly since I first tried it a week ago.

Since when was there a kneebar? Madness.

I figured you were to blame, you fat knacker!

Christ's sake Wald... if you just ate a little bit less.

Misha... if memory serves me its a very good (if slightly painful) kneebar!

I presume that the great big scoop in the roof that can engulf half of one's thigh has been there for thousands of years and is surely one of the most obvious kneebars on the entire crag.

Ah fair enough, I've used it to attach some protruding concrete blocks at home with what seems like great success, certainly doesn't seem to flex atall - I'll keep an eye out for it degrading though. Then I have to admit I did assume it was the same stuff people who I've talked to about gluing holds on used, evidently not.

I didn't do it!

Maybe I used it... Memory is hazy!!

Given the current weather be a little careful with some of the tubes of polyester resin from Screwfix, the working times may be a fair bit less than the instructions suggest! I had two tubes that went from runny to harder than the surrounding concrete in about a minute. I tend to store them in the fridge. 

Epoxy resin is best and should last forever but takes a fair while to go off so you'd need some way of clamping it in place

OK, Cry of Despair is now fixed and open for business. I glued the hold last night and tried it today. Didn't quite manage to do the route but the hold seems solid enough to pull on and stand on. Hopefully it'll remain that way for a good few years.

Thanks to Kristian for resin and resin gun to make the repairs. Thanks to all for the tips and advice.

Thank you!

James