UKC

Best mountaineering axe?

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 PPP 22 Aug 2018

I have given away my trusty Grivel Air Tech Evo and will need a new axe for upcoming winter. 

I am usually into solo Grade I-II adventures, so nothing too technical yet I found the curved shaft to be nice when daggering. Rubber handle would be appreciated so that I don't need to wrap self amalgamatic tape that eventually fails. 

I have tried DMM Cirque in the shop and just didn't like the feel of it - the weight balance felt a bit off compared to the previous axe.

My eyes are on the Petzl Summit Evo which doesn't seem to be in stock in shops nearby. Any experiences with it and/or any recommendations? 

mysterion 22 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

Have a look at a Climbing Technology Alpin Tour.

T rated, rubber grip, curved shaft/dropped head, it even feels lighter than it is

Post edited at 16:49
 KevinJ 22 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

I picked up a Petal Summit Evo last year as a lighter alternative to my DMM Cirque.

Significantly lighter, feels good in the hand when walking and 'bites' well in self arrest drills.  The reduced weight and shorter length means I can pack it inside my sack when using telepheriques, etc in the Alps.

The lighter weight does make step cutting a bit more of an effort, but overall I've been very pleased with the Summit Evo.

For longer Scottish winter days on mixed terrain, I may still use my Cirque though as a heavier duty tool.

Overall, glad I bought the Summit Evo.  Works well, carries well, and packs well when travelling by air.

 

OP PPP 22 Aug 2018
In reply to mysterion:

Looks interesting! Dron Plus might be even a better fit (given their technical sheets) and I am quite happy to see smooth head underneath where fingers wrap around. 

I am not too fussed about T rating since my outings are exclusively solo in Scotland. 

OP PPP 22 Aug 2018
In reply to KevinJ:

Thanks for the insights! Glad to hear it feels good in hand. 

> For longer Scottish winter days on mixed terrain, I may still use my Cirque though as a heavier duty tool.

Good point.

 colinakmc 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP: I kind of know what you mean about the dmm cirque but I liked the shape of it. I tried a raptor and found that to be just a fraction heavier and more reassuringly balanced, you don’t see many in the shops but might be worth a look.

 

 damowilk 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

When I was looking for mountaineering tools recently, I wanted tools you could plunge, with a bit of a curve, and a sliding trigger rest, which I find very useful for sustained daggering.

It came down to a choice between the Petzl sumtec and the Cassin x-light. I chose the Cassin as a guide who used the summtecs complained that the shaft near the hammer had cracked from clients bashing pegs etc, but he otherwise liked them.

I’ve been happy with the X-lights so far.

 Mick53 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

Another vote for the DMM Raptor.

Very well balanced, rubber handle and the head is changeable/replaceable.

 

Deadeye 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

Out of interest, why did you not like the Grivel?  I was about to suggest it!

 planetmarshall 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

> My eyes are on the Petzl Summit Evo which doesn't seem to be in stock in shops nearby. Any experiences with it and/or any recommendations? 

Snell Sports in Chamonix had both the Summit and the Summit Evo in stock. I went for the former as I could see no discernible difference and it was cheaper.

In reply to planetmarshall:

also worth noting the standard petzl summit will take a sumtec sliding trigger (same shaft profile) but i don't think the Evo would due to the weird forming on the shaft.

personally i'd rather have a trig-rest than a rubber handle which is supposed to be the main selling point of the evo. 

In reply to PPP:

Have you tried a DMM Raptor? It's a wee bit more techy than a Cirque, but still good for walking too. Well built to take the knocks, and good balance/swing...  https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/snow+ice/ice_axes/dmm_raptor_ice_axe-8957

cb294 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

I bought the Petzl Summit Evo for my daughter, and liked it better than my rather similar Grivel Air Tech Evo.

CB

 LG-Mark 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

Consider the Black Diamond Swift also. T rated, slight curve, sliding rest, pretty light. 

 

 Andy Hardy 23 Aug 2018
In reply to PPP:

Has anyone tried these? https://www.salewa.com/en-gb/north-x-ice-axe-00-0000001742

I think Kong adventure in Keswick had some, but I haven't tried them myself

OP PPP 28 Aug 2018
In reply to paul_the_northerner:

> personally i'd rather have a trig-rest than a rubber handle which is supposed to be the main selling point of the evo. 

Do you mind sharing why's that? Got myself confused what's more important! 

 

I forgot to mention that I do have a bit more technical ice axes (a pair of Singing Rock Bandit, similar to old Petzl Quarks), so I do have a choice of taking them on steeper terrain. 

In reply to PPP:

I’m not saying one is better than the other, it’s personal preference.

 

With a mountaineering axe you spend most of the time holding the head of the axe so having rubber on the handle is no advantage here. On steeper ground the rubber handle will improve grip but I find I have more confidence in the trig rest.

 

What I’d like is a lightweight axe with a rubberised handle that also works with a sliding trig-rest … ooh Grivel Light machine!

OP PPP 15 Sep 2018
In reply to LG-Mark:

> Consider the Black Diamond Swift also. T rated, slight curve, sliding rest, pretty light. 

I did consider it and got one, in the end! Feels quite amazing and a lot more solid (in a good way), the head seems to be a good fit for my hands. 


Can't wait to plunge some snow now. 

 LG-Mark 15 Sep 2018
In reply to PPP:

> I did consider it and got one, in the end! Feels quite amazing and a lot more solid (in a good way), the head seems to be a good fit for my hands. 

> Can't wait to plunge some snow now. 

Good choice. I really like mine.


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