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Morocco trip advice

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 eoindaly2 28 Oct 2018

I lead climb 6b+ on sight single and multi pitch sport.  I don't have much trad experience.  I'm looking for potential partners or guides for a week from November 10th to 17th to do Tafraout, the closest airport being Agadir.  I'm up to meet at the airport in Adagir anytime on the 10th with a car in order to drive out to Tafraout.  I'll be dropping someone at the airport anyways on the 10th.  I found plenty of cheap flights from the UK to Agadir when I booked.  If anyone is up for this trip or knows competent guides willing to guide it let me know. 

 GridNorth 28 Oct 2018
In reply to eoindaly2:

Just a word of warning.  Climbing in the Anti Atlas is at the adventurous end of the adventure spectrum and I would advise against climbing there unless at least one member of the team has a reasonable amount of trad experience.

Al

OP eoindaly2 28 Oct 2018
In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks for the advice Al, good point. I do agree. Cheers

 spenser 28 Oct 2018
In reply to eoindaly2:

Steve Broadbent's excellent website has some stuff listed about trip planning including details of a local guide:

https://www.climb-tafraout.com/tourist-services.php

 

I will be nearish over those dates but frankly wouldn't be comfortable climbing in the area with someone who I don't know is an experienced and competent trad climber. There is some bolted granite to the South of Tafraoute, however I don't think it's what the area's "all about" as such (I may be wrong as I have not been before).

You may find a more positive response if you look at Taghia or Todra Gorges as they are much more sport focused areas.

Cheers

Spenser

 GPN 28 Oct 2018
In reply to spenser:

> You may find a more positive response if you look at Taghia or Todra Gorges as they are much more sport focused areas.

Taghia is amazing, but in my opinion you really want to be onsighting at least F7a for it to be worth the trip (or climbing with somebody at that grade!). Steve McClure has just written a good article confirming that the grading is pretty tough! http://steve-mcclure.com/articles/144-taghia-perhaps-the-best-multi-pitch-v...

I also suspect it’ll be getting a bit nippy there by mid November!

G.

 

 spenser 28 Oct 2018
In reply to GPN:

Fair enough, I haven't been to Morocco before now so wasn't sure what the other options were.

OP eoindaly2 28 Oct 2018
In reply to eoindaly2:

Thanks for all the advice. I'll head to southern Spain for a week of sport instead. In the coming years I'll aim to increase my skills and experience so I can one day do that trip. I'm surfing in Morocco and blown away by the quality of the experience. The climbing sounds equally as exciting. One day.....!! 

In reply to eoindaly2:

There is plenty of good easier routes to do in the anti atlas, (tafarout) if you can climb 6b on bolts you would probably be looking at routes up to hvs. But you will have to be comfortable with placing protection and dealing with route finding (and what to do if you get off route) and some loose rock.

 spenser 28 Oct 2018
In reply to eoindaly2:

I took up trad climbing with the aim of going to Tafraoute 6 years ago! Enjoy your time in Spain, if you get keen and learn to trad climb you will probably find that you can rustle up some partners you already know for a trip by the time you are experienced enough to go.

J1234 29 Oct 2018
In reply to eoindaly2:

Twid Turner has got experience in the area and seems to get repeat customers.

http://www.themountainguidingcompany.co.uk

I would not go to the area with someone half arsed as rescue facilities are thin on the ground, so if being guided, you need someone who can actually guide.

A great area, enjoy.

OP eoindaly2 29 Oct 2018
In reply to J1234:

Thanks, fyi in my research I had reached out to Climb Morocco (http://climbmorocco.com/) a couple days ago.  As I hadn't heard back and was doubting the feasibility of the trip I've since made other climbing plans.  For the sake of information they have just replied to me offering guiding services.  In case anyone is reading this and looking for a local guide I suggest contacting them. Regards


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