UKC

Montane Flux

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 Blair Keogh 30 Jan 2019

I’m in the market for a decent belay jacket but also something that isn’t going to break the bank. Had a look online and found the Montane flux at a good price at just over £100. Does anyone have any experience using this as a belay jacket? Iv seen some reviews for it being used as a mid layer and some as a belay jacket. Almost seems like it’s inbetween. I would be using it for Scottish winter climbing and general mountaneering activities. If anyone knows much about the jacket or owns one please let me know, thanks.

Blair 

 The Lemming 30 Jan 2019
In reply to Blair Keogh:

I have a Flux jacket and it's great for walking the dog, being on the move bouldering and climbing on cold days.

I have not climbed any ice for many years, and if I was belaying I'd guess that I would be too cold just to have this as my main belay jacket. But then I do feel the cold easily.

It's a great mid layer piece of kit and bombproof too.

I had a prism before this one but accidentally boiled it while washing at almost 90c in the washing machine. Doh

 Connorh 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Blair Keogh:

I've had the flux for 2-3 years. 

I've never used it as a Midlayer, I used it as a belay jacket in Scottish winter, Rock climbing and take it to work with me. I find it keeps me adequately warm on a cold belay for about 40-50 minutes,  its not lost much of its warmth, Its windproof and was originally pretty water resistant (I need to retreat mine) . It would be too hot for me as a midlayer and you would feel like the michelin man. 

Its pretty durable as well IMO, I totally abuse it and its only showing very minor signs of wear.

My one gripe is that the hood is too small and so when deployed over a helmet you are prevented from looking up properly,  its not a big deal I just pull the hood down when its my turn to climb and its fine to belay in. 

 

Post edited at 00:13
OP Blair Keogh 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Connorh:

Thanks for your input!

Picking it up tonight, seems like a decent belay jacket for my first season. I don’t imagine I’d be spending too long at belays anyway.

 climber34neil 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Blair Keogh:

I've been using one as a belay jacket for the last 4 years as well as general everyday use, walking the dog etc in winter and really like it, I've not felt the need to use anything else

 top cat 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Blair Keogh:

Best designed belay jacket available   The pockets work really well should you choose to climb in it, the belay loop is accessible due to bottom opening main zip AND popper to keep the ends from flapping.  Hood is big enough for my Ecrin.

Only negative is that the cuffs are too long and a bit tight....

You are likely to need a size bigger than you'd expect.

 Guy Hurst 31 Jan 2019
In reply to Blair Keogh:

It's a good jacket, but I'd say probably not warm enough for Scottish winter for many people. Depends on what else you're wearing, how much you feel and cold, what you had for breakfast and probably other factors, but for prolonged belay duty in dire (fairly normal) Scottish conditions heavier jackets will be better.


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