UKC

A tactical post to raise the profile of Staffin Slips and the Chimney stack area of  Kilt Rock, Staffin. Whilst Neist, Kilt main sector  and Rubha Hunish are wonderful in their own right and attract regular traffic, these cliffs have generally been lower down the priority list for visitors. They have undergone something of a renaissance recently, having been climbed on lots this year and are generally very clean following a little crow-barring and lots of scrubbing by local enthusiasts. Additionally, there are another half a dozen high quality new routes to climb at Staffin and plenty more to do elsewhere if you have the time and desire. Some of the best sustained crack/groove climbs around. Grade range E1-E5. Required conditions = a day of dry weather following rain, a steady breeze in midge season. Recommended kit = all of the cams you can muster, a handful of wires, some tape, a chunky single rope, a 60 m static. Pete

Im up there this weekend and planning on getting to both venues. Big thanks to the locals and yourself for the many hours scrubbing and getting those crags back on the radar! Have you any info on the new routes?

Barry

Just pulled off the UKC page now:

Windom Earle E2 5c Twin white cracks right of Sasha.

Fire Walk With Me E3 5c Perfect sustained finger crack 8m right of Silly Pollack, between Facilitator and Living Hell. Finishes at the highest point of the crag.

Wildwood E5 6a The finger crack a few metres right of Green Vote gives a spectacular, hard pitch. Recommended kit: 3* BD X4 0.2 to BD C4 0.5, 2* BD 0.75, 1* BD 1, single set rocks 1-10, single rope.

Usually we warm up/re-calibrate jam skills on the shorter routes R side using conveniently placed metal anchors to TR/lower off etc before moving on to the big eens to the L. 

Enjoy

Cheers Pete.