UKC

Hi all,

So I have been climbing for just over a year, all indoors until now.
 

My climbing wall closed a few months ago due to the COVID-19 pandemic and I haven’t been able to climb since then. 
Lately I have seen that it is possible to go climbing outdoors as long as social distancing and precautions are adhered to and I want to go to the Peak District (closest area for me) to begin bouldering outdoors. I have heard Burbage South has some really good low grade beginner boulder problems for people venturing out for the first time and wondered if there were any routes in particular that would be fun for me that anyone knows of? 
I have been trying to keep up with training at home as best I can but I don’t think I will be anywhere near as strong as I was when I was going to the climbing wall 5 times a week, obviously, hence why I’m looking for easy routes to ease me in.

Also, is it worth getting a guidebook and if so are there any good ones for the PD specifically?

And (last question, I promise!) I have looked at a lot of bouldering mats and think the Moon Warrior looks pretty good - anyone have any experience with it or thinks there is a better one to go with?

Thanks in advance!  

I've got a Moon Warrior pad myself, it's a great primary pad. Not tried any other pads around the same price point, so there might always be something better, but I'd say it's definitely a good choice.

There are a few different Peak District bouldering guidebooks, I have the Vertebrate one. I'd recommend it, though I've used a friend's Rockfax one and that's good as well, so I don't think you can go too far wrong with either.

Climbing outside, especially on gritstone, will be very different to what you're used to indoors. Expect to drop a few grades! Burbage South boulders are a good, and will certainly get you acquainted (or frustrated) with the style of grit. Don't forget to wipe your shoes clean before getting on the rock!

You are definitely right about Burbage South Valley Boulders. There are more than enough low grade problems to make a few visits worthwhile, good problems and a nice venue. I would recommend getting the Rockfax guidebook, Peak Bouldering. Locals may know of a more useful guide?

As for pads, my first one was a Warrior. They are excellent pads for their size but you will be limited in terms of how you can protect yourself. If going for one pad I would recommend buying the largest quality pad you can afford. It will give you more options in terms of what you can climb and how far you can fall from. The Warrior starts to look very small from 5m up. Remember, whilst a lot of problems in the Peak have flat landings, many are heinous and require 2-3 or more pads. Perhaps get a new Warrior and try and get a couple of second hand pads.

I swear by the Saturn, however I have had a spinal op, so extra padding is useful. Best of luck.

I have a SNAP pad and think they are excellent, but one of the key things is to make sure it fits in your car! I tend to use 2 pads and small super-thin pad to help even out landings, do overhangs etc. Can be hard work carrying two on your own though.

Burbage south boulders are a great place to pick up grit technique, and there is lots of interesting stuff with good landings. I think locals tend to climb Grit in Winter and Spring, and then Limestone in Summer and Autumn - higher temps mean grit problems can feel much harder. Going early in the morning can help with that.

I've used SNAP pads quite a bit and find them to be totally reliable, especially the large one (Grand Wrap?). It's probably the first choice for many French in Font.

I find at low grades the weather isn't too important on grit, especially for a beginner. Aren't there a couple of decent circuits up to around F5+ at South Valley? An excellent starting venue!

Oh hell yeah! I'm probably biased because it's where I did a lot of my first ever outdoor bouldering, but it's absolutely wonderful for that.

It's also a great place if you're bouldering on your own, because stuff's mostly not too tall and has nice flat landings (though there are exceptions, so always check and think about where you might land). There are even some nice low traverses. So you can keep things very mellow while you adjust to being outdoors.

It's also mostly possible to get off the top of the boulders easily -- though again there are exceptions; I've seen a fair few people get trapped by the Brick because you can't see the downclimb from above.

A very important rule of outdoor bouldering (which I have repeatedly learned the hard way) is to always check the downclimb ...

You're also probably going to find outdoor bouldering very different from indoor bouldering to begin with, especially when it comes to slabby gritstone weirdness like a lot of the stuff at Burbage South.

You might well find that strength's not the issue at all and you're just standing there staring at something the guidebook claims is V0-  because you can't see anything that resembles a hold.

I'm saying this so you don't think it's just you; this happens to pretty much all of us on our first times outdoors (and first times on grit, for folks who start on rocktypes that have more holds on them). So don't stress about it! Treat it as a chance to explore and begin to get your head around it.

I'd definitely rec getting a guidebook; the Rockfax Peak Bouldering is probably best to start with. Though I do have a personal soft spot for the BMC "Burbage, Millstone and Beyond" because it gives you all the history and anecdotes for the area, with a nice little guide to the Burbage South Valley boulders sandwiched in there.

I would absolutely like to second that point - I found the transition from indoor to outdoor bouldering far more challenging than indoor to outdoor leading.

Hi, thanks for the reply!

When you refer to ‘grit’ what are you referencing? Is this to do with the rock type? And what types of ‘style grit’ are there? 
I’m aware there’s probably a lot more climbing jargon to learn when you start climbing outdoors so I really want to get to grips with some of it before I head up there. Given the weather recently it’ll be a couple of weeks which should give me time! 

Grit is the rock - gritstone.   Often relying on friction on sloping holds. 

Steve

Yes, "grit" is gritstone, the rock type there. It has wonderfully high friction, especially when it's cold, which means you can hang onto or stand on things that you'd never be able to use if they were plastic (or, say, limestone).

This is fortunate because natural grit tends towards very rounded, slopey shapes, without a lot of distinct holds.

So relative to indoor climbing, gritstone climbing tends to have less "grab the obvious hold and pull hard" (though it's got a fair amount of that!), more funky body-position balance mental-puzzle working out how to use things that you might not initially recognize as holds at all.

Of all the rock types I've climbed on, I think grit is the most different from indoor climbing. Which is part of why I find it so exciting!

Rockfax has made the Burbage South chapter of Peak Bouldering free to download as a PDF.

https://rockfax.com/wp-content/uploads/intros/peak-bouldering-preview.pdf

The only thing I'd add is newbies will eventually get used to grit mantels on rounded top outs and must forgive themself for initial flailing bellyflop or knee manoeuvres.  This one can make some indoor climbers operating in the low 7s cry with frustration:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/burbage_south_valley_boulders-9732...

I recently bought a Moon Warrior pad and am very happy with it, you'll have to do a bit of hunting around online at the moment to even find a bouldering pad as a lot of places have sold out, presumably lots of people missing indoor climbing and having the same idea we have had!

burbage south is where is started out. bought the decathlon simond bouldering mat. big and deep just like what my missus thinks my pockets are. peak bouldering rock fax...try the circuits in order green first.

Hey!

Welcome along. My top tip would be that when you beginning climbing outside, keeping your shoes clean is important. This helps look after the rock and makes sure the super expensive rubber you have on your feet actually sticks to the rock you want it to. A beer towel is a really useful tool for this. 

Have fun!