UKC

Where is the best place to find info on things like quality/flatness of landings and suitability of climbing in rain? (eg. route doesn't get wet due to location). If no such resource exists, does anyone have recommendations based on criteria above (in England).

Bouldering guidebooks 

Hi Tom,

If you’re trying to find a suitable place to boulder then it’s a combination of things that lead you in the right direction. Firstly, where you are based/ where you are willing to travel to (England is pretty big!) and what the weather is doing/ has been doing when you want to go. 
More specifically, to narrow your search down, you could start looking on the crag database on this site to see what is close to you and then move outwards - you can glean a fair bit just from looking at descriptions/ pictures/ comments as these give you a good impression of a venue. Guidebooks to a particular area will then be more specific, with comments on specific boulders/ crags/ problems. Finally, there is no substitute for local knowledge so going and scoping it yourself/ asking a local is always good.

If you’re interested in getting a guide then Boulder Britain by Niall Grimes is a good place to start as it covers loads of venues in enough depth, does all the things you are asking for - walk-in, topo, landings, shelter etc. If you’re interested in any specific places/ need some guidance with stuff in Gloucestershire then give me a shout and I can photo a few pages for you/ give you some info to get you going. 

Anywhere in the south, up to the peaks and as far as the Welsh border, so I'd definitely consider Gloucestershire if you feel like being generous on advice for climbable in wet weather bouldering with landings that aren't totally hairy! Already had a good snout at the potential locations on the crag database but trying to get info like I'm after specifically relating to climbable in rain doesn't seem so obvious. 

Will see if I can source a copy of Boulder Britain as you suggest.

Gloucestershire?! Is quality not a factor?

Depends how you feel about biblins or huntsham I suppose. Personally, I rate them.  No idea about the practicalities from London though, probably quicker just to bosh it up the motorway to the same peak venues as everyone else

I've only experienced Cleeve Hill - I didn't know there was much else around to be fair!

In all honesty if you are London based and just starting out (assuming this is the case but correct me if I’m wrong) Gloucestershire might be esoteric for your taste! 
You’ve got southern sandstone (which I haven’t climbed on but can send you the pages from boulder Britain if you want), then it’s probably most convenient/ reliable to head for the Peak - long tab up the m1 but what you will find is abundant quality, diversity and accessibility. Obvious spots for starting out because of the wealth of easier problems, short walk ins and decent landings are cratcliffe and burbage, although these often tend to be busiest of course. 

Cleve hill is absolutely not my cup of tea at all! I’m stuck in Cheltenham so have to make the most of what is relatively close by - huntsham has some excellent problems and quality sandstone, biblins is a huge limestone cave with some inspiring lines. I miss the diversity and scenery of wales but don’t feel hard done by when there are impeccable jewels lurking close by. 

The easier problems in the Peak for those starting out will (largely) certainly not be climbable in the rain, however.

I don’t think I have said they would be suitable in the rain? Weather looks good next week. Specifically for sheltered bouldering - I’m not sure what’s doing in the peak, I’m not local. I tend to head to huntsham near Symonds yat as the sliced slug is pretty sheltered until you get several days downpour. 

Indeed you didn't, just pointing it out for the other Tom  

The slightest breeze and things are drying up pretty rapid around these parts at the mo!

But there aren't many things that'll be climbable in the rain at friendly grades, aside a few 'local' crags with 'local' problems but you wouldn't travel here for those!