UKC

Hi all,

im after a belay jacket it’s mainly for Trad climbing this winter, it needs to Ideally be able to pack into its own pocket to clip onto a harness as stuff sacks add Faf and something else to get blown away if dropped. Plenty of pockets, ideally 3 or 4 out side, and 2 drop pockets inside, 2 way zip, helmet compatible hud etc. And hopefully below £200. 
 

I have been looking at the Montane Flux, has anyone got any experience of this jacket, or any other recommendations. 
 

thanks in advance.
 

Ryan

I can vouch for the Patagonia Mens Down Sweater Hoody (https://eu.patagonia.com/gb/en/product/mens-down-sweater-hoody/84701.html). I've been using mine for a year and I'm really happy with it. 

It's one of the warmest things I've ever worn but also breaths so I never feel sweaty.

The hood fits over my helmet. 

It fits under my waterproof layer which is a single skin Jack Wolfskin coat which I carry to slip on in case of strong wind or rain. It also fits under my denim jacket for when I want to look like an Alaskan trucker. 

It easily packs down inside it's own inside pocket to a pouch the size of a gala melon. It has a little tag to hang it from but I slip it in my backpack normally. I effortlessly packed/unpacked it multiple times on a 7 hour climb on Tuesday as we moved in and out of wind/sun. 

It has fewer pockets than you want as it only has 2 zip pockets. The zip is not 2-way but it's so lightweight I comfortably wear it under my harness if that's what you're concerned about. 

It's also constructed from recycled polyester so you can be proud of that. 

I promise you, it may sound as though I am employed by Patagonia but I am not. I just love my jacket.  

Flux isn't the warmest, but it has all the features you need from a belay jacket.  There are some ' belay' jackets out there that actually hinder the act of belaying!  You need a double ended zip AND the ability to re join at the bottom: access to your belay / rope loops and to retain heat by not having your coat tails/ flaps blowing in the wind.

The upper pockets are really useful.

So good i used to have two, but someone nicked one of them

You will need to go up a size.

Minus points: sleeves are a bit too long and neat in the circumference.  One day I'll get round to fixing that using my sewing machine.  The fact that I haven't indicates it isn't too much of a problem.

Big fan of the Flux. I've used one for 7 or 8 years. The same jacket for that whole time and used daily 6 months of the year + as a belay jacket for trad and winter + DIY/gardening/camping. Face fabric and construction has proved to be solid. Insulation has lost its loft now but it's still fine for trad, perhaps not winter. Arms and torso were a bit short (in size small - I'm always on the edge of small and medium depending on brand). Tight to get it in it's own pocket but I never did that much. I'll be buying another, in a size up for winter belay jacket.

I've had a Flux for the past seven years: it's not the warmest jacket ever, but it does the job for me. I can't imagine packing it into its pocket on every belay though - it's a time-consuming faff. I'd rather chuck it in the top of the bag that I'd no doubt be carrying instead. I usually climb with an Arc'teryx Alpha FL, which is particuclar great for this as it takes two seconds to open the top, stuff the jacket inside and close the top again. No messing about with buckles and straps and other sorts of complication.

Thanks for all the input that’s great! I’m usually a medium so I’ll upsize to a large then. Hopefully it should be warm enough, like I said it’s for mainly trad not winter climbing, I have been using a rab microlight alpine for the last year and a half which was fine warmth wise but is a snug fit and misses the extra pockets, helmet compatible hud and the 2 way zip and popper. So will keep that for hiking etc. 
 

thanks again! 

Been using one of these for about 4 years, only weights 290g keeps me warm enough, I try not to drag it up grit, I wear a shell if its really cold/windy/wet, 40 quid

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/trek500-men-s-mountain-trekking-down-jacket-o...

I assume it's for belaying in... 

Being an armchair warrior tonight, if it's for leading in......

Maybe consider it's too cold for trad? 

or you're climbing too slow

Or you're not climbing hard enough. 

Or you need a new support team who'll preplace a jacket in the correct place going forwards. 

Lol. 

Being even less help, I have some phd kit which I can put on at belays etc, also have a thinish stretchy but we'll tailored wind proof type job which I find does wonders for cooler days climbing without being silly and over the top when climbing. 

A full on belay jacket I'm not sure I'd want for trad unless just belaying single pitch stuff. Then I borrow my mates, pre warmed too. 

My advice which is more from a winter climbing point of view is go cheap, watch for deals. Belay jackets are much of a muchness, not too far detached from the 70s Anorak my mam sent me to school in. 

You WILL end up climbing in it and as face fabrics get lighter, they become more delicate. £250 on a fluff filled jacket that is torn on its second trip because of that rough chimney doesn't make much sense.