UKC

Alternative to Scarpa Vapor Lace

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 Johnhi 26 May 2021

With the new style Vapor Laces seeming to be about half a size bigger than the old, I had a shot at ordering the half size down online only to find that while the forefoot fits great, they're achilles tendon torture devices.  So it seems I'm in the market for a different shoe.

I've seen a few posts suggesting that Miura's were a very similar fit (but seem impossible to find in a physical shop?), are there any other similar shoes to knocking about that may be worth considering?

 Andy Farnell 26 May 2021
In reply to Johnhi:

The new Scarpa Boostics. Stiff yet sensitive. Tight yet comfortable. They are very asymmetric, which is fine for my foot shape, a far better fit than the Instinct range. I'm very impressed with them, albeit I've only had chance to use them indoors. They feel like they'll be very, very good outside.

Andy F

OP Johnhi 26 May 2021
In reply to Andy Farnell:

Unless they've got some pretty wacky sizing there's not much chance of fitting my feet in a 45 which seems to be the largest size sadly.

 misterb 26 May 2021
In reply to Johnhi:

45 should just squeeze a UK 11.5 

43 does my 10.5 UK but that is a very tight fit, not all day comfort 

More like boulder or sport climb fit not trad

 TomD89 27 May 2021
In reply to Johnhi:

They are very slightly wider at the toes compared to the previous iteration, so feel marginally bigger. However, this didn't seem to translate to any slippage at the heel so actually got on well with having the identical size to it's predecessor.

Will lacing the Vapors tightly not solve whatever issue this feeling of being bigger is causing?

 nufkin 27 May 2021
In reply to Johnhi:

Bit of a guess since I've not actually tried them, but maybe the Katakis could be worth investigating

OP Johnhi 27 May 2021
In reply to TomD89:

Initially bought a pair in size 46 matching my previous pair of the old variety, but they very quickly broke in to a shoe that leaves my big toe very unsupported.  They definitely feel longer than the previous iteration with my toes now entirely flat. 

They climb well as a comfy shoe but really don't really allow you to force your toe into a small hold.  

Perhaps I got an inconsistently sized shoe?

In reply to Johnhi:

I just shifted from Vapor Laces to Unparallel Laces. They are a bit different and it is early days but it think they will be good.


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