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Resources explaining rope work on complex terrain

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 Twiggy Diablo 15 Aug 2021

Hi folks. Is anyone aware of any good online resources explaining principles of good half rope technique on long complex/meandering routes.

most of what I’ve read only cover the basics regarding extenders etc. The longer mountain routes I’ve done recently have followed much more complex lines than most examples tend to cover, and I’d be interested to understand what I could do better…

I learn best from pictures so some good diagrams would be ideal

Thanks!

 David Coley 15 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

multipitchclimbing.com 

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OP Twiggy Diablo 15 Aug 2021
In reply to David Coley:

Unless i’m being exceedingly dim (which is possible) i can’t find anything useful in this regard on there

 Rich W Parker 15 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

You could also try this link. There's a lot of good stuff written by amateur experts, just be a wee bit careful because some of it is a bit esoteric and in my opinion requires a fairly advanced level of technical awareness. Not referring to anyone in particular. 

https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/half-ropes/

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 Pedro50 15 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

This has always amused me.  Front cover of Rope Techniques by Bill March featuring the late lamented Louise Dickie.

The rather similarly coloured half ropes are clearly twisted above the belayer, a recipe for lifting gear out.


OP Twiggy Diablo 16 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

In my search I came across this: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/how_to_protect_traverses-2785

The section right at the end that discusses ‘turning corners’ is the closest thing I’ve come across.

 Inhambane 16 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

Andy Kirkpatrick now and then does articles on advanced rope skills, recently a mini series on how to protect the 2nd from swinging into a wall of sharp rock. 

https://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/blog/view/now-get-out-of-that-2

Post edited at 14:37
 David Coley 19 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

> Unless i’m being exceedingly dim (which is possible) i can’t find anything useful in this regard on there

I'm not sure what you are after, and I wrote it a while back, but I'm guessing double ropes on multipitch belays, extending runners, simul climbing, abseiling, gorilla aid with two ropes, rescue.

I'm not sure what you are after though. On the whole you use them just the same as on shorter routes. On long routes, i.e. 200m plus, single is often best I find 

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 agent_smith 20 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:>

> any good online resources explaining principles of good half rope technique on long complex/meandering routes.

> The section right at the end that discusses ‘turning corners’ is the closest thing I’ve come across.

> I learn best from pictures so some good diagrams would be ideal

//

Some quick comments for you 'Twiggy': (all given in good faith):

A few people are scratching their heads wondering exactly what it is you are seeking (ie trying to define your question with precision).

Not sure if you have ever considered the concept of 'tacit knowledge'?
Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tacit_knowledge

I could try to describe in words and pictures (to a learner / complete beginner) how to drive a manual car on a busy road. No matter how many pictures and words I use, I think you will still crash, or be at a high risk of crashing your vehicle. Only through lots of controlled practice under competent guidance  will you eventually develop your knowledge and skills to a level where you can 'safely' drive your vehicle on a busy road and not run the risk of crashing or indeed killing someone else.

There is also a difference between 'knowledge' and 'skill'.
Link: https://elearningindustry.com/difference-between-knowledge-and-skills-knowi...

I think the online resources already identified are about as 'good' as you'll find (depending on precisely what you mean by 'good'). What you really need is to team up with a competent and very experienced climber (presumably you mean 'trad' type multi-pitch climbing as opposed to bolted sport routes) - or seek out expert instruction.

Regarding your comment re being a "visual learner" (pictures/diagrams):
Check out this link: youtube.com/watch?v=rhgwIhB58PA&

If you do find a 'good' online learning resources for 'complex' (multi-pitch?) lead climbing techniques - please post herein...

 alex505c 20 Aug 2021
In reply to David Coley:

> On the whole you use [double ropes] just the same as on shorter routes. On long routes, i.e. 200m plus, single is often best I find 

Interesting — why is that? 

 Michael Hood 20 Aug 2021
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

Are you basically talking about avoiding rope drag, which rope to clip into which piece of gear, type of stuff (*) or are you talking about other rope skills which are used more on multi-pitch routes, and things like protecting the second on traverses.

(*) if it's just this then one approach I have sometimes used is to almost think about it artistically.

The ideal final result when you reach the belay should have both ropes only having gentle curves as they run up the pitch, no sharp changes in direction.

The ropes shouldn't cross and the distance between them should only change gradually. The end result should have an esthetically pleasing run of both ropes.

Obviously this ideal is rarely completely possible, it depends so much on exactly where a pitch goes, having enough slings/extenders, having gear possibilities in the right places, that the crux isn't a 5m traverse next to your last gear that stops you extending it, not being pumped out of your brain, etc.

But if you keep thinking about the ropes' paths looking "nice", it will help minimise rope drag problems.

 David Coley 26 Aug 2021
In reply to alex505c:

". On long routes, i.e. 200m plus, single is often best I find"

> Interesting — why is that? 

1. as routes get longer I often climb stuff I can climb fast, i.e. easier, hence no need to look for complex zig zagging gear. And more cams than wires. And lots of easy pitches, with the odd harder one.

2. less rope to sort out on the belay

3. when belaying for long periods, many opt for an assisted device.

4. simul-climbing the very easy bits with a microtrax backup works best with a single


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