UKC

Hi all,

Wondered people's opinions on shoes...I have currently gone through 2 pairs of Scarpa instincts in a year. Alot of bouldering indoors and out, and I keep wearing the rubber out on the toes. Whilst they fit like a dream has anyone got any recommendations on a shoe with a good rubber specifically on the toe?

Thanks in advance 

Which instincts? If the VSR's then use VS as they have a stiffer rubber compound but fit the same, or get a couple of different pairs and use horses for courses, you'll get longer out of a shoe if say you aren't using a soft shoe on sharp edges.

Have you thought about resoling? That way you'd get 12-18 months out of a pair of shoes at your current rate of attrition

I actually used both and the same thing happened. I get that it may be technique aswell but both lasted about 4months! But yeah good advice on maybe a few quivers to my bow

Thanks for the reply!Annoyingly I tried a patch up and it made it worse in the long run. Have you used cobblers for re soling in the past or a specific climbing resoler?

I've had probably 7 or 8 pairs of instincts and to be honest I think they last pretty well in comparison to others I have had. You aren't going to find something that lasts significantly longer unless you buy something very thick and stiff soled with a corresponding loss of feel.

To go through them in 4 months you must be climbing a lot? One option (which has its downsides) is to buy a cheaper pair to use indoors where it's likely that most of the wear occurs.

I use Llanberis resoles. Always very happy with the result. I can normally get a couple of resoles out of a pair before the uppers fall apart

I've tried other resolers over the years with mixed results. Llanberis resoles give the most consistent results IMHO

I'm a big fan of Scarpa and of the many shoes I've used over the years, Scarpa along with LaSportiva are definitely the best quality from a manufacture point of view.

Resoles are a great way to get more out of a broken in shoe and in my opinion are are good as new, or better if you factor in the shoe being broken in already. Llanberis resoles are excellent but pricey, My pal Steve at Northern Sole is also great and more reasonably priced. Ideally get them resoled before the rand wears. 

I do my own resoles which are less good than both of the above and I get at least a year out of each resole - check my logbook for an idea of mileage.

For what it's worth, I think improving technique is the best way to increasing the longevity of climbing shoes. 

Good Luck

Duncan

I have used Feet First in Chesterfield twice on the same pair of instincts and they are great, although it's cheaper for me as I live close enough to not post them. The second time they used unparallel rubber and they have been fine.

Make sure you don't actually go through the rubber before you get them resoled. If they need a new toe patch, it may not be worth it. 

If we're talking resoling I'll throw Cheshire shoe repairs into the discussion as worth a go. Based in Warrington, I've had a couple of pairs done by them and been pleased with the results.