UKC

The Five Ten Anasazi Pink needs little introduction. This flat, stiff, lace-up shoe has been a mainstay in many climbers' bags for decades. But how does its successor, the NIAD Lace, compare? Nick Brown investigates.

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So they took possibly the best selling shoe of all time and changed everything about it? Genius. Clearly some smart cookies running the show there. I never would have thought of that.

Can someone explain to me, in idiot form, what the actual story is behind the rubber quality/5.10/adidas/unparallel?

I tried a pair of anasasis about 6 months ago and it definitely wasn't the same rubber of old. Also finding out that Anasasis were available in TKMaxx was a little concerning for a shoe that's flouted asthe best in the business.

I think the ones in Tkmaxx were the  "new" version of the old model, presumably stock being cleared to make way for the Niads.

I’d just say that my local ( fully independent) climbing shop returned all 5.10s when they changed the rubber and they don’t sell them anymore. 
 

I got a pair recently. Only used indoors a few times so far to break them in. Initial impressions:

Sizing - this has definitely changed from the original and is probably the same as the updated Anasazis, i.e. I need to go up half a size.

Seem to be breaking in and stretching a bit fairly quickly.

Have also noticed the dead space / loose material just below the laces. Seems a bit of a sloppy design (for my feet anyway) but not sure it’s an issue for climbing.

Haven’t really noticed the heel feeling any different. A bit less volume on the outside so perhaps better for smaller heel hooks.

Haven’t really tested the toe hook patch. Not sure it’s really required as this isn’t a bouldering specialist shoe.

On the whole, always hard to tell after just a few sessions but I’d say it’s not much different to the original Anasazis (other than the sizing). Then again, I thought the same about the new Anasazis, which some people didn’t like apparently. May be my footwork is so bad that I can’t tell the difference 🤣

Certainly a good all rounder.