UKC

I'm pretty certain I've got these, which are an indication of osteoarthritis, so that's something to look forward to!

They've come up quite quickly, over the last 4 months or so.

I'm climbing harder than I every have been and am wondering if this is what's set them off, and if they just go away, or at least calm down so I can still climb.

I'm doing 3 sessions a week normally 2x2 hours and 1x4 hours, mainly 6a and above.

Last Sunday was a long session and my fingers were hurting afterward (0-10 about a 3), I didn't climb at all this week, but they don't feel any easier nearly a week down the line.

I'm approaching the big six-o!! So maybe that's what happens

Am I doomed?

Has any else had/got them? How do you cope?

I'm off to the doctors to have them looked at, sometime in March, hopefully this year!

Any advice / info please.

Yes I have them. All 8 fingers getting worse over the last 6 months after first noticing on an index finger 18months ago. Aged 61 climbing twice weekly indoors and doing my hardest grades lead and bouldering. They hurt afterwards often for 24hours but pain eases if not climbing. Now always there as a low level background ache. Joints have limited movement so I can no longer make a fist with tips agaist the palm. Pain 1 to 2/10.

No treatment planned.

Cheers, I was hoping you'd say rub some olive oil on them and they'll be gone by the morning!!

My worry is how quickly they've become an issue, I can still make a fist like before, but I can't straighten my fingers, there's a bit of a bow in them.

this getting old lark is a bit shit, I don't think I like it.

I've got them - but so have my mum and her sister, neither of whom have climbed a route in their lives. First noticed about 10 years ago, I've carried on climbing 1-2 sessions a week indoors plus occasional outdoor trips, and they've got slightly worse but not much. I use Flexiseq gel (when I remember), take glucosamine and turmeric supplements, drink cider vinegar every day, all of which probably does nowt much, but maybe it does, who knows? Good luck anyway. I'm 55 btw.

The old concept of OA was “wear and tear”, that it was an unavoidably degenerative condition that only got worse, and cartilage does not regenerate.

This was a bit unnecessarily pessimistic outlook and removed agency and control from those that had it, so the newer concept is “wear and repair”. It is true that cartilage doesn’t regrow, but you can slow down and stop degeneration, but the mainstay of this is physical therapy, physical therapy, physical therapy! Maximising strength and flexibility of muscles around the affected joints is key, needs started early and kept up diligently. There is little medication that helps. Eat healthy of course, but things like glucosamine that showed some initial promise have been disappointing in follow up bigger studies. Try to avoid use of painkillers as much as possible, particularly anti-inflammatories and opiates.

For hand OA, I’d recommend seeing a good hand physio early for long term advice, they can achieve more early on in the disease process.

I’ve had the nodes for at least two decades. Maybe I’m lucky but mine are minor sized and very slow growing though can generate a lot of pain at times even when resting. My layperson’s thoughts.

No they won’t go away; nor will they necessarily get worse quickly; you’re certainly not doomed; climbing can continue.

I didn’t bother going to a Doc specifically, though about 10 yrs ago in the passing the doc just looked and promptly ignored. Current NHS thinking as mentioned is wear and repair; there is little or no repair in reality imo.

My line all along is and had been - use or loose. Yes adjustments are or maybe necessary for various activities either temporary or longer term. My worse pain/restriction was probably around 5/6 years ago now. As an encouragement for climbing, some of my best climbing, quantity and grade, was after this.

Hand physio, cold water treatment, pacing, resting, alteration of how/when, are my standard “treatments”.

With climbing, sometimes (effects of the nodes/oa vary with mine) if I can’t pull much on say one of the index fingers (sometimes I have to stop mid route and have to manipulate the joint affected) and so use second and three fingers to take the main strain. Crimping is out, use of pinkies is not possible (indeed I have to try and keep them straight as holding them curled raises pain), limit session if it gets too painful and push harder on days things are ok. Try not to catch them or say trap them in cracks/behind holds.

Overall, I ignore them the best I can except for regular physio (even simple stuff right after an individual climb sometimes before untying) and cold water “treatment”. Get on with life, keep going, make minor adjustments. 

Mrs profitofdoom has the osteo, saw the GP, he said take glucosamine (over the counter medication), no other treatment possible

That's our story 

Good luck with it 

Edit, osteo in fingers

That's exactly what my GP said. When I told her I work on a keyboard, and climb, she also said "you might want to stop doing both of those". Helpful!

The only thing worse than getting old is not getting old

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I've got all sorts of aches and pains, I've had a back injury for 40+ years, and usually just get on with things and try to ignore it all.

I think what's worrying me most, is how quick they've appeared and grown and how there seems to be no way to work out how bad they're going to get.

It's a bit of a bastard when I'm really enjoying my climbing, and pushing my grades because I've made some changes to the way I climb, nothing much but with confidence in a new belayer, I've been "allowed" to push myself more than I used to and now I'm worried I'm not going to be able to climb without damaging myself.

Anyhow, once again, thanks for the tips and advice.

Maybe I'll change my mind and get to the wall this weekend.

I see a lot of younger climbers with these.

In my opinion they can be a bony adaptation to climbing loads and not always a pre cursor to OA.

But as others have noted they can be, or they can not be. Not very helpful sorry.

Monitor your training loads (you do day it was a long session and you’re climbing harder than ever) and get them checked for issues like synovitis or general tissue irritation by a physio or hand specialist with climbing knowledge. 

Cheers, I'll give one of those a go.

Also check out the 3-6-9 finger board programme from Steve bechtel. Google that and look for the strength climbing.com link to it.

Its a great programme for long term improvement and finger health. I prescribe it to patients with OA who want to overcome their issues, or manage them as best they can.

It is also worth considering using a larger edge (25mm+) for this type of work. There is not much gained, but a lot more force through the end joint, by dropping to 20mm or less. 

Obviously this is all Internet forum based advice. I haven’t assessed you. But I’d hope these help 

And in a spirit of helping out, not self promotion, I have some finger care videos on my Instagram profile - process physiotherapy - that can also help and only take a minute or two. 

Nice one cheers, I'll check them out.

Finger boards though, ha ha ha