UKC

Hi all,

I'm planning a trip for a few days in the Lakes in early June and am struggling to work out the best place to head. I've never been before and would really appreciate some input from more experienced folk.

Nirvana would be to find a campsite with a decent single pitch crag within walking distance, with climbs between Diff and HS, but maybe that's asking too much? If anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Or perhaps the Lakes isn't the best venue for this kind of trip? We live in Sheffield so it's not like we're wanting for excellent single pitch stuff, just fancy a bit of a change and an excuse to go camping!

Cheers,

Max

In reply to Max BB:

Eskdale. There are a couple of decent campsites and crags within walking distance of both. The granite of Eskdale doesn't offer great protection, but the climbing is very nice.

Hare crag, Goat crag, Brantrake crag, Tortoise crag, Fisherground bouldering are a few for starters.

HTH

In reply to Max BB:

National Trust campsite in Langdale has Raven and Scout Crags handy.

Not the place to go if you are seeking solitude thou. 

In reply to RobAJones:

That was my first thought.  The single pitch crags on Wrynose (Black Crag and Long Scar) are a short drive too.

In reply to Jamie Wakeham:

They’re also not a very long walk over Blisco from the campsite! 

In reply to Max BB:

Must admit on reading Jamie's reply I hadn't fully taken in the single pitch aspect. Having said that if single pitch has been specified for top/bottom roping kids/beginners Lower Scout is suitable, but polished as a result. The classic routes on Upper Scout can be done in one pitch, as can routes on Raven Crag (Evening Wall, Revelation, Centipede) but they do require an abseil decent and careful ropework. Middle fell Buttress is multipitch but easily escapable and you can have a game of 5 a side on the stances. 

In reply to Max BB:

Hollows farm campsite is an easy walk to more than enough crags to keep you occupied.

In reply to Max BB:

How about Seathwaite in the Duddon Valley and Wallowbarrow crag? Decent campsite, pub and crag all within walking distance in a quieter valley of the lakes.

On second thoughts most of the routes seem to be short multi-pitch routes.

In reply to tjhare1: Very true! And a lovely walk too. Once you've done the steep bit up Redacre Gill (about 45 mins) it's a 20-30 min stroll to Black Crag, though could take longer after rain as its boggy in places. I was surprised that the Rockfax suggested driving up to the top of Wrynose without mentioning this walking alternative, not least given how many climbers stay in Greater Langdale.

In reply to Max BB:

The Lakes is a fantastic area but you may need to compromise a bit. For a first trip I would go to either Langdale or Borrowdale. They’re both lovely, with lots going on, there is great climbing and you have a town (Ambleside or Keswick) at the entrance if you need it for supplies, gear, more pubs etc.

BlackCrag/Long Scar are a good suggestion for single pitch cragging but you’ll probably end up driving up to the three shires stone for them. Shepherds in Borrowdale is a well-trodden crag for first-timers with the V Diffs on Brown Slab being popular and still worthwhile, and a couple of great low-grade but multi pitch routes.

In reply to Max BB:

Some of the stuff in Combe Ghyll in Borrowdale might suit your requirement. Walking distance from two campsites but the one about a kilometre south of Rosthwaite is probably the most convenient. The climbs on Glaciated Slab and Twa Hummocks have clean rough rock in a lovely setting (not really a top rope venue though). As well as climbing you have two good pubs and a teashop within walking distance and some great walking, from valley stuff (including the distinctive lump of Castle Crag) to the fells east of Rosthwaite that Wainwright described as the most attractive square mile in the district.

In reply to Max BB:

Thanks so much everyone, really excellent suggestions! Lots to consider!

In reply to Max BB:

On top of the other suggestions, which are all good, is there a reason you're limited to single pitch crags? A lot of good crags, even in the valleys, are two or three pitches (e.g. Raven, Shepherds). Might help clarify the advice!