UKC

Planning on heading to the States this Autumn or next Spring (April/May 2023). I'll likely be heading to Yosemite and possibly also Indian Creek/Moab. 

I have a friend who is keen but would only be likely to manage a couple of weeks whereas I would be looking to be out there for around a month. Does anyone have any experience of getting partners out there? Is it worth just booking flights anyway and going whether my main UK partner joins or not? Unfortunately finding people who have the time and the psyche for big walling is quite difficult in the UK!!!!!

Best,

Arran 

Not got info on the valley, but we did hook up with someone at the creek for a few days when we were there. Not for belay duty, or ropes, but for rack sharing. 

The cracks there are so sustained at the size that if you turn up with a stack of 2.5 to 3.5 friends then I reckon you'll find people to climb with

For Yosemite it is pretty straightforward, maybe the easiest place I have been for finding climbing partners. I have been out a few times, originally I found partners from the notice board at Camp Four which still works (worked in 2018) especially if you are based there.  On my last visit in 2018 I also used a Mountain Project profile and it's forum and also Facebook, there are some groups for this, both worked well. I would be happy enough to go out on my own again though I suspect there might be some changes since the pandemic.......

Even Boris Johnson would find a climbing partner in Yosemite.

E

My Valley trips were all in the Seventies so probably not valid now, but during my second visit in 1977 I climbed entirely with people I met around Camp 4, mainly Americans. You could pin a notice to the ranger shack to request partners, lifts, sell kit or whatever. Routes included Half Dome direct NW face, Steck/Salathe and Leaning Tower plus multi-pitch classics on Middle Cathedral.

In 1978 I had an agreement in principle to do Salathe Wall with Howard Johnson, made in the Padarn, and we met up for that and the NW face of Sentinel, the rest of the time was casual pickups of like-minded climbers hanging around camp, Brits and Americans.

You will be fine, I suspect.

Base yourself in Camp 4 and you won’t go wrong. Have a stellar time. 

Someone I know did this, and came home with a fiancee...

...but probably didn't get much climbing done!

we're also currently looking at Yosemite (not the same timing) but i'm finding Mountain Project really useful (there's a section for partners). One thing to bear in mind is the campsite reservations- not overly straight forward. worth looking into as it looks like come mid May time it's a daily lottery for a campsite space in camp 4. and also look into getting the permit for staying overnight in the valley not in campsites (i.e. on walls/long treks).

seems like a bit of planning needs to go into it all as far as i can tell (unless someone puts me straight which would be really helpful)

My last experience of this (2019) was that it was okay but things took a few days to get going. Mountain Project definitely helpful. For some reason Americans don’t use WhatsApp whereas every foreigner does, so be prepared to spend some money texting. 
 

The climbing is obviously amazing but the bureaucracy and organisation are a massive pain in the arse. One of my climbing partners on that trip, a Brit living in California, said “sorting out accommodation is the crux of any trip to the Valley”. Bear in mind other parts of California may have similarly great climbing, except for big walls, and considerably less overall hassle. Eg https://kdanielspublishing.com/cart/index.php/guide-books/high-sierra-climb...

Not easy partner pick up venues tho…

I am keen for a month climbing from august 28th.. I’ve spent a lot of time there but not leading as my old partner did that. 
 

I heard the camping situation is difficult now since the last time I was there.

Sold, I’m booking a ticket as we speak 😂

Another vote for it'll definitely be fine. Use mountain project forums. People on there were great when we went. Not for partners but for kit, advice, places to stay. You won't struggle to find partners. In Indian creek, I'm pretty sure you'd be fine just turning up at one of the busier campsites and get chatting to people. Or pre arrange on mountain project.

I also agree with another post about the faff of climbing in yosemite Valley. Places like moab are a lot more straightforward. And really, really good. 

Just checked this...walk in camping is now no longer possible in Yosemite from May through September: reservations required. Also a permit will be needed to drive in or through from 6am to 4 pm. Very sad news.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/nrcamping.htm

There are two obvious ways that might work....one is to go in in the evening and set up a portaledge (advanced permit might still be required).... another is to camp outside the park (more convenient for Tuolumne climbing) and go in before the gates are staffed. Do not try and sleep in the car/van as the rangers know the tricks and fines are expensive.

There are accessible big walls elsewhere in the US... notably Zion and Red Rocks. My climbing is mainly in the HS to E1 range and I've been climbing in YNP ten times for a week plus and still have plenty to do.  More than a lifetimes worth elsewhere in the SW alone (done about 15 combined winter trips to Red Rocks and Joshua Tree). Mountain Project lifts and partners works well.

https://www.mountainproject.com/partner-finder

Yep . Its a bit of a shock if nobody tells you in advance about the camping situation there and you turn up expecting an easy time!

The combination of rules and climate change mean going in October is probably a bit better.
 

Yes absolutely, the US is a Mecca for big routes and there are other walls. I’d love to do another trip to Yosemite but would probably do a week/ten days there and combine it with other places rather than go there the entire time. It’s not just the rules and regulations, the general facilities are generally a bit run down and past their best. It’s no surprise Camp Four has to be booked, there’s been a huge rise in the number of climbers (and overall US population) but it’s been the same size for decades. Incredibly short sighted.