UKC

Hi All,

I'm off on holiday later in the year and am unlikely to get near a crag for 2 weeks.  I'm looking to get a portable hang board to hang from the monkey bars in the park while the kids are playing to keep my fingers going.  Does anyone have any recommendations for which to get?  My main concern is that at home I use the bigger holds on my wall mounted hangboard to warm up before hitting the 20mm edge and most of the boards seem to have little in the way of bigger edges.  I'm also concerned about stability and being able to hang the thing without it tipping forward/back.

Thanks

SSB

I have a couple of these: https://arete-climbing.co.uk/shop/crag-stick and think they're pretty good.

One at home hung above my desk to warm up on before a lunch break session. Another which comes to the crag. The only downside of portable boards I find (having looked at a few), is they tend not to be quite wide enough. When I'm doing two arm hangs (either on an edge, or warm up scapula engagement shrugs etc) my hands are more above my head than above my shoulders. I don't find this very comfortable, or good for my shoulders. I'm quite a wide chap though...

Thanks. Do you find that the way the cord attaches makes it pivot backwards (to make the holds incut rather than flat) or does it hang fine?

This might be controversial... if you are climbing and training year round it might improve your climbing more to take two weeks off and just enjoy the holiday/play with the kids. You will give your body chance to heal/recover (especially if you manage to get decent amounts of sleep and don't drink too much). Then when returning from holiday you will be psyched for training/climbing and you can put in the hard work then. 

I have one of these which works very well and doesn't pivot when in use:

https://rockrun.com/products/ash-climbing-portable-hangboard

However, the one suggested by Chris is quite a bit cheaper.

Regards,

SD.

If you do want a board though some of the Crusher options have more holds, they would be a bit heavier in the luggage though... 

https://crusherholds.co.uk/product-category/fingerboards/

I agree with this - research has shown generally zero to minimal strength drop even over a 3 week period. The average point at which most people started to drop off slightly was around the 2 week mark. That being said 1-2 moderate sessions would maintain recruitment and have minimal impact so up to you, OP! 

Thanks.  I did consider this but I generally deload by doing a couple of weeks of onsight trad in a comfortable grade range rather than pulling hard bouldering which I find does the trick.

Couldn’t agree with you and sxrxg more. Two weeks’ rest has the potential to be far more beneficial. 
 

It hangs fine.

Or you can combine family holiday, fun with the kids and max hangs! 
(Not very scientific..but easier than packing kettlebells or plates )

Maybe you're on to something actually.  I suppose I could do some swimming/running/cycling and a few pull ups while I'm away for a fortnight.  I'm in Font for a week directly after the 2 week family holiday so maybe I'll just be ready to tear the place up after a rest!

Just think how much skin you'll have!

If you're in font directly after then I would recommend the max hangs actually. You'll still recover loads but keeping recruitment high will avoid wasting a day or two re-recruiting. 

If you are going to font just find high walls and practice mantels! Watch the elbow though! 

I have a Tension Flash training board which is pretty good:

https://www.tensionclimbing.com/product/flash-board/

The fact that the rope is wound round the ends prevents it from tilting and means you can invert it to use different holds. I just use the full circular bar for regular pull-ups.

If there are monkey bars, can't you find a way of warming up on them? Also, the top of any portable board will have something you can get your fingers over, surely.

I have a crusher send, which I like (see link above). The upper rail is a decent depth so is ok for warming up on (Paul who runs Crusher might be able to tell you what depth if you ask, I'm not at home to measure mine). The lower edges are 20mm ish I think.

Seconding this. I find it very portable, light, hangs very well, skin friendly, the design stop tilting back and can to pull up on the nicely rounded bar as a whole.

I really like my Taylor Made fingerboard. Hangs really nicely and has 3 slots. I got it done so that when I flip it over it’s got larger edges. I think 25mm one side and 20mm on the other. Middle slot is around 25mm and 30mm.

 Though I ordered that specifically rather than the standard one.

Sure can, you're correct with the Crusher Send, the bottom is 20mm the top is 32mm, so basically like a 'standard' small & large campus rung... flipped on its flat side of course. Someone mentioned weight.. 500grms or thereabouts, not much more than a can of pop, it's pretty light, especially for a solid wood board.