UKC

Hi All

I'm a big fan of tufa climbing. In the last few years I've spent parts of the autumn in Chulila, Terradets, Kalymnos, Leonidio and Datca, but imagine that they might be quite hot in May.

Any tips on where to go for this style of steep, juggy, athletic climbing in the spring and early summer. Ideally a spread of grades from high 6's to low 8's.

Cheers!

The Arve Valley…

Le supermarché (above Robion) has some good routes in this style. The big roof at Fauchon round the corner (25m 7c+ or 40m 8a+) is pretty special. 

Oltre Finale above Finale Ligure. the best tufa climbing outside Greece for me..

John C

Kalymnos is fine in May in my experience. No hotter than October (and fewer mosquitoes)

Like that time you took me to Gorge Du Ce because its like Kalymnos...

Sounds great,  I'm struggling to locate the crag online, do you have a link to it on here or elsewhere? Cheers!

Could be tricky! It’s a long time since I climbed there.have dm’d you.

Hi Will

I enjoy a tufa-tussle too (though my personal recommendations stop past 7b) so here are a few venues that don't feature on your original list that might fit the bill for April / May:

- Currently in Croatia, and Buzet, Klobuk and Cikola would all have something to offer (photo of Klobuk from yesterday attached and a few more in this link https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/11/10/split-part-1-perun-and-klobuk/)

- Osp and Mija Pec is tufa paradise, but best at your end of the grade range than mine

- Northern Spain (a.k.a. Roca Verde) has a tonne of tufa, and Teverga has to be one of the country's best kept secrets

- Geyikbayri comes to mind but probably too hot then

... and the list goes on - message me for more inspiration 

Cheers, Dom 

I thought mija pec was a sun bowl winter crag? 

I would also have assumed geyikbayiri would be too hot, it can be hot in the sun in December!

If it has dried by then (sometimes yes sometimes no) Rodellar could be good.

Tres ponts? East facing, steep, breeze from the river...

Fair point - I've climbed there in April when the Slovenian youth squad were flashing 8s, but that says more about Slovenians than the conditions! Could hide in the cave sector at Osp or nip over to Buzet for more reliable shade if it turned out toasty. 

Also fair re temps, though undeniably a tufa Mecca!