UKC

Newcastle Bouldering Walls

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 Climber_Bill 13 Mar 2023

I am in Newcastle next week for a few days for work and would like to go bouldering on a couple of the evenings.

Which is the best bouldering wall to visit? Climb Newcastle - The Valley looks quite good from what I have seen online. Any other suggestions.

Thanks.

CB.

 petegunn 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Climber_Bill:

Friction over at Gateshead is worth a visit 

https://www.frictionbouldering.co.uk/findus

 tehmarks 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Climber_Bill:

The Valley is excellent and my go-to wall when I'm back in 'the Toon'. I used to be a member of/big fan of Newcastle Climbing Centre (in the church at the other end of Shields Road), but the bouldering is nothing spectacular. And the last time I was in there I essentially got chucked out for climbing in big boots, which seemed a bit excessive and unnecessary.

They're both easily accessible by Metro or bus too.

1
 ianstevens 13 Mar 2023
In reply to tehmarks:

Excellent is an overstretch I think. It's been a couple of years since I have climbed there regularly, but often found lots of weird setting (twisting around and/or odd dynos) and according to friends it's not really changed. A quick look on insta shows that at the moment they have set some insane walking F2 along half the comp wall...

1
 tehmarks 13 Mar 2023
In reply to ianstevens:

> Excellent is an overstretch I think. It's been a couple of years since I have climbed there regularly, but often found lots of weird setting (twisting around and/or odd dynos)...

Ah - I consider that a positive. Surely expanding the movement repertoire is a good thing?

 Russell Lovett 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Climber_Bill:

Try both climb newcastle centers the Valley and the pool are easy to get to and both really good.

 matt1984 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Climber_Bill:

Another vote for Friction just over the river. I'd barely bouldered til it opened and now I'm there twice a week. The variety of setting and walls is fantastic.

The Church (Newcastle Climbing Centre) is where I continue to do roped climbing, and if you're on their own they've a huge amount of autobelay routes (maybe 30-35 routes?) and plenty bouldering too.

I'd recommend an evening at both.

Post edited at 21:55
OP Climber_Bill 14 Mar 2023
In reply to All:

Thanks for all the suggestions. Looks like I will be spoilt for choice.

I'll probably have a session at the The Valley and then Friction as they are both bouldering venues.

CB.

 MH1 14 Mar 2023
In reply to Climber_Bill:

There is also Climb Newcastle -The Pool run by the same team as The Valley.

In reply to Climber_Bill:

when we’re up there we usually head in the opposite direction to Eden Rock. However, the times i’ve been to the Valley bouldering, I thought it was great. Moonboard and all the usual stuff. Definitely a bit of a bit of a different setting ‘vibe’ but that’s the whole point of going to different centres. For example if you look up any threads about Sheffield climbing walls, you’ll find a lot of detail about how different the setting is between the walls.

 matt1984 15 Mar 2023
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I'm a bit confused, up where?

Carlisle is about and hour and half west of Newcastle (on a good day) - that's like recommending somewhere in Birmingham to someone that's said they're visiting Manchester?

2
In reply to Climber_Bill:

Near Haltwhistle

 mark20 16 Mar 2023
In reply to Climber_Bill:

Climb Newcastle: The Valley is brilliant. You wouldn’t know it from the UKC directory entry, or their own website or social media, pretty much anywhere online, or even when you are in the building … but go down stairs and there is a huge training area with a bouldering cave,  30 moon board, 45 moon board , 10 woody , 30 woody, 45 woody, 55 woody , splatter board thing and a decent length circuit wall of varying steepness. Various fingerboards, weights and gym stuff. 
Upstairs is the usual “modern” mostly vert slopey blobs bollocks , but seems as good/bad as any other wall in this respect. 


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