UKC

These days rock shoes seem to be getting softer and softer, making the quest to find a supportive trad shoe increasingly tough. The Generator and its mid-cut companion buck that trend in a big way, says Rob Greenwood, combining all-day comfort with an impressive level of performance. It's fair to say he loves them.

Read more

I recently bought the Mid (I was fed up of sacrificing ankle blood to the climbing gods) and have tried it on Peak limestone and Yorkshire grit and they're brilliant. Can stand all day on the tiniest limestone edge and never felt insecure smearing on a gritstone slab. Foot jamming is a joy - I jammed my way all the way up a limestone crack just because I could.  

I got the Generator mid because the TC Pro didn’t fit. They’re absolutely fantastic. I wore them in the Dolomites on long multipitches with little to no discomfort. They also deliver great performance on a wide range of different rock types and, like Yorkie Old Git says, they are brilliant for crack climbing

Won't be long till shoes are 200 quid...

Thanks for the review, these could be just what I’m after

1. Did the midsole breakdown or soften in your time with the boot
2. Could this be considered a successor to the 5:10 Blanco (asking for two friends!)

3. In what ways is the women’s version different?

Just buy unparallel 

Very disappointed that they’ve replaced the maestro with this and not kept he same range of sizes that the maestro was made in. 

Why do so many manufacturers give up at 45 or 46? So annoying! At least you get an extra size out of La Sportiva..  (46 LS is 47 Scarpa)

Sorry for the delayed reply, I missed this back when you initially posted it.

It definitely gives a bit, but not to the extend that it's presented an issue with performance, so whilst it has become softer I haven't found that this has had a significant (or particularly noticable) impact on its edging ability.

I'm probably not the best person to ask, as I was never a fan of the Blanco, but it ticks a similar set of boxes (albeit with incomparable build quality).

In a nutshell: it's lower volume.

Or buy whatever works for you, irrespective of what brand that may be 🙂

Thanks Rob, looks like I ought to invest in a pair in time for a Chulilla trip

I'm a big fan of the Vapour Lace for trad and I was wondering what the difference is, and are they a similar fit? I'm hoping they're a bit stiffer.

There's a pretty big price difference atm.

Ta.

Way stiffer and more volume in the toe box so not quite as good for thinner cracks. 

I haven't properly broken mine in yet so only had a chance to use them on the woody at the wall (which is obviously not intended use for them) but I think once they break in they'll be pretty good as all rounders. 

Strangely enough, I haven't found them particularly wide fitting (I do have wide feet) nor do I feel the heel is narrow. Annoyingly, the soles below the arch have got some extra rubber on them that don't hug the arch of my foot when cranked tight so leave some dead space around the heel. I went down a full EU size but fear I could've gone another half again to get a better fit.

I think most of these issues should sort themselves out once they've broken in and flattened out a little but thought it worth mentioning.

It's  a joke isn't it!? When you get other types of niche market shoes made with similar materials for £20.

How many times are manufacturers of climbing shoes going to re-invent the wheel with a shoe that basically hasn't changed that much from an unadulterated climbing shoe from 20 years ago. 

Each year another tweak and the price goes up. Where as in reality they could keep churning out tried favourites and reduce their design costs/increase profit margins that way.

I miss my 5.10 Rogues and Moccasyms, both excellent shoes and the Unparallel versions are crap! Even an old pair of Anasazi VCS would be great!

Thanks Nathan. Way stiffer wouldn't be a bad thing, certainly gives me a different option, especially for long slab pitches.

Vapour lace is great! I've bought soo many pairs of shoes, but they gave me a genuine 'Oh right' moment, they do a great job of being supportive and comfortable on small edges.

For £20 - really?! I'd be intrigued to hear some examples...

hopefully they won’t stretch in such a weird way - had 2 pairs of vapours where the rand stretches over the sole after a while

Handmade, short run Italian shoes for £20 ... hmmm

While he's buying them can he get me an Alfa Spyder for the price of a Fiesta?

I've heard from a couple of climbing shops that prices for existing and new rock shoes are expected to be hiked in the next financial year, inflation and a weak pound means that some shoes will be touching on £180.

Sorry mate.