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Advice on down jacket and hardshell for climbing Lobuche East?

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 miggins1610 20 Sep 2023

Hi, will be climbing Lobuche in March 24. Looking for a down jacket that will keep me warm but not overkill as March in Nepal tends to be clear skies and sunny days! I also intend to use it generally in NZ winter on the south island.

I was looking at either the Montane Anti Freeze XL or the Mountain Equipment lifeline (although i suspect this will be way too hot!)

Also looking for a decent hard shell to replace my old Rab one. Windproof, 3 layer Gore Tex ideally but looking at under £600 altogether IF possible

Also on the down jacket front, i tend to be a medium but have been advised in Cotswold outdoors to go for a small so less air can get in and affect the insulation. Is that right?

Cheers

 McHeath 21 Sep 2023
In reply to miggins1610:

To state the obvious - size will depend on what you’re planning to wear underneath, the relative length of your arms, hood size re your helmet, ease of arm mobility etc. We can’t help you there, sorry!

 slawrence1001 21 Sep 2023
In reply to miggins1610:

> Also looking for a decent hard shell to replace my old Rab one. Windproof, 3 layer Gore Tex ideally but looking at under £600 altogether IF possible

Mountain equipment Tupilak. Best hardshell I've ever owned and completely bombproof. Annoyingly looks like the price has gone up recently, but if you are lucky (or know anyone who works in an outdoor shop) you can get them for a decent price (got mine for 170).

 Damo 23 Sep 2023
In reply to miggins1610:

> Also on the down jacket front, i tend to be a medium but have been advised in Cotswold outdoors to go for a small so less air can get in and affect the insulation. Is that right?

A small what? There is so much variation between brands - and bodies - until you're getting down to specific models it doesn't mean much. Also, while a trim close fit does keep warm air in better, around your body, if you size down and it's too short in the arms or too short in the body those bits will be exposed and defeat the purpose of a warm jacket.

Air 'getting in and affecting the insulation' is not really a thing, btw. It's really quite bad advice from a shop.

Khumbu in March you don't really need a hardshell at all  - do you really think it will rain? A good windshell or hooded softshell will probably be fine. NZ SI, on the other hand...

2
 Slarti B 24 Sep 2023
In reply to miggins1610:

I was in Himalayas AprilMay this year and we had poor weather for about 2 weeks.  It was windy, snowy and very cold.  At Lobuche we climbed up to the base camp in a blizzard and I started getting frost bitten fingers on the ascent as my gloves were not warm enough.  I had the ME K7 jacket ( recommended by trek company) and was very glad to have it!  Luckily I got a great deal from Facewest which made it about 45% off current RRP

This was my first trip to Himalayas so not sure if it was unusual weather but do be prepared. 

On  hard shell I have had ME Tupilak for several years for ice climbing and winter and it is excellent.

OP miggins1610 27 Sep 2023
In reply to Damo:

precisely, the hardshell is for NZ. I highly doubt it will rain in March!

appreciate the advice.


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