UKC

This year I got old fast: at 35 it turns out I have elbow osteoarthritis, both sides.

I've climbed intermittently since I was a teenager, but been mega psyched for it over the last decade and (incorrectly) assumed I would still be climbing for the next decade or longer.

I was wondering if any other climbers (of any age) had any experience with this, its progression or have any climbing friends with experience of it - and if people stopped climbing or continued.
It would be nice to hear from anyone, positive or negative.
There aren't a lot of answers, asking a doctor how it will progress if you do X or Y is like asking how long is a piece of string.

The orthopaedic specialist advised me to avoid loading them significantly (eg climbing), and to take up swimming.
He made it pretty clear I should want them to last another 30 years before replacements should be a consideration (they're not good - limited to lifting 2-3kg, often need revisions, don't last as long as knee/hip replacements).

Thanks
Harrison

PS Just in case it worries anyone - I doubt it was caused by climbing; climbing may have been one of many many contributing factors including a pre-disposition for it.

Any clue what caused it? Guess any further decline will dependant on addressing this primary root cause before trying to figure out how to reduce secondary causes.

Hey - not necessarily. Essentially once it has set in, the cartilage undergoes changes that mean it doesn’t repair as well and is also more susceptible to damage.

Activities that weren’t a problem before may be quite detrimental now (eg board climbing).

I think the most up to date thinking for the root cause ranges from a hereditary defect in your type ii collagen, to things that cause an imbalance in the biochemistry of the joint. It’s proposed there are multiple different causes and they might need different treatment approaches. 

Overuse and high impact compressive forces are contributing factors - but very few people get OA as a result of those.

In the past I did thai boxing, olympic weightlifting and a few periods of intense manual work. I suspect all of those played a bigger role than climbing. I also imagine 99 out of 100 people could do the same and not have any problems.

My dad also had knee problems from his 40s - which they thought was caused by poor alignment (bow legged). With my elbows too I think an increased hereditary risk is a possibility.

And from the MRIs it could have started 5 or even 10 years ago. Its just been noticeable the last two, and with hindsight probably longer (dull ache/soreness in forearms - not an alarming sensation for a climber!)