UKC

Montblanc via Aiguilles Grises ridge

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 George747 16 Jan 2024

Hello, I am planning to do Montblanc via the Gonella hut in August. I am assuming the Glacier du Dome is going to be dry and impassable. Am planning to bypass to the climber’s left by ascending the Aiguilles Grises ridge. Wondering if anyone has experience doing this and perhaps can share a gpx file? Thank you 

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 James Harker 16 Jan 2024
In reply to George747:

The Glacier du Dome can still be passable in August, and it was last year. Your best bet is to see how the conditions progress through the season and ask the local guides office for conditions closer to the time. We couldn't find out much about the ridge either, so were planning to do a recce on it the day before if the Glacier wasn't in condition, but we didn't get over to MB in the end.

Post edited at 08:19
 MG 16 Jan 2024
In reply to George747:

No direct experience but Ive heard it's quite fiddly and time consuming.

 tistimetogo 16 Jan 2024
In reply to MG:

It's a great big day and feels very isolated and remote compared to other routes.

Some of the rock sections are optional and you can bypass sections of them by walking round and staying on the snow. 

Watch out of crumbly rock. I nearly dropped a massive boulder on my partner when climbing this years ago.

We went in July. The glacier approach was a little tricky and involved a couple of jumps. The gaps were about as big as I would ever want to jump on a glacier.

 James Harker 21 Jan 2024
In reply to tistimetogo:is the ridge just a scramble or is there anything technical to look out for? Thanks!

 philipjardine 21 Jan 2024
In reply to George747:

unless its an unusually cold and wet summer the route from the Gonella wont be climbable in August.  The glacier is very crevassed and the hut often shuts before then.  They have had a water problem in recent years as well.  Its a route to do on foot in June or early July usually.  Its often done on skis earlier in the year.  if you do manage to get up it in August I certainly would recommend not descending it.

Post edited at 19:48

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