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Trying to find area in the Dolomites

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 IainMcT 06 Feb 2024

I’m trying to find a particular place in the Dolomites. Many years ago I spent three amazing weeks climbing in the Dolomites. A couple of the routes were in one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. I know in the Dolomites that doesn’t narrow it down much. There was a stand alone rock tower tower. The descent from the top involved down climbing and short abseils. There were several plaques attached to the rock showing the dates climbers had died there. I remember one was Gunther but I don’t remember the date. To the right was a larger rock face with a wonderful Messner route with a long traverse on pitch two. The area was at the top of a long steep road surrounded by forest. Numerous lycra clad cyclists and touring motorbikes were there. At the top near the climbs was a large plateau / valley which stretched for several miles with mountains either side ascending above it. The climbs were only 15 minutes or so from the road and there was a very busy refuge / restaurant by the road. I have searched Google earth and street view but cannot find it. Sadly my climbing days are behind me but I would love to revisit this place and show my children. We do ski in the Dolomites every year but I don’t recall any lifts. Any climbing sleuths know where this might be? Annoyingly I no longer have the guidebooks.

 Alex Riley 06 Feb 2024
In reply to IainMcT:

Top of the Sella pass?

Via Messner (VI-)

Post edited at 18:38
 pasbury 06 Feb 2024
In reply to Alex Riley:

Sounds like it. I spent a very happy three weeks there many years ago. It had an excellent bar a short walk away.

 Martin Hore 06 Feb 2024
In reply to IainMcT:

Almost certainly Sella Pass and Sella Towers, as others have said.

I don't know how long ago "many years" is for you, but I climbed several routes there, including the Messner route you describe, back in the mid 80's. I remember the route for three reasons. Our first attempt ended sheltering from a thunder storm in a cave/niche, one or two abseils from the ground. (I later learnt that caves/niches are not the safest shelters when lightning is around). On our second, attempt I was leading out across the big traverse on double ropes (English style) when a climber on a harder direct route that crosses the traverse managed to pass under one of my ropes and over the other (!) Took some sorting out as we didn't have a common language. We were successful on that attempt, but our sense of achievement at having climbed a "Messner" route was pulled down a peg when we realised that the Messner brothers were 17 and 15 at the time.....

Martin

 Lankyman 06 Feb 2024
In reply to Alex Riley:

By chance (?) there's a picture of Sella Towers in the UKC gallery right now

OP IainMcT 06 Feb 2024
In reply to Martin Hore:

thank you so much everyone. Yes, I’m sure you are correct. It would have been early 1990’s when I was there. My friend and I were going climbing and another friend who wasn’t very experienced tagged along and was just going to do some bouldering. We took him on the Messner route as a rope of three with him in the middle. I can’t remember much of the traverse except the guy in the middle had unclipped both ropes from the protection so I had to do the traverse with a corner in front and below me with no protection for the traverse. Wasn’t difficult climbing but I remember a nut being a bit stuck and having to faff about to remove it really not fancying the long pendulum if I fell. We also had a storm to contend with. In the penultimate pitch we could see it working its way towards us and lightening in the distance. Much to our friends dismay we told him we were coiling the ropes and soloing the last pitch as getting down quickly was taking precedence over ropes and gear. We did just make solid ground before the storm hit. All very exciting. Later on just the two of us climbed a much longer Messner route on the Marmolada with a much longer walk in. The guy really was an incredible climber. One pitch was a long slab with zero protection. At the top was a single peg that took a downwards force fine but I could pull it out by hand. Every route we climbed put up by Messner you could add at least one grade to. 
Anyway, I can ski to the Sella Pass. Might be a couple of years before my children are old enough to join me though. They’ve seen pictures of me on Dream of White Horses and on a portaledge on El cap and weren’t overly impressed so I’m not sure they will care anymore seeing some climbs I did thirty years ago close up. But at least I can reminisce.

 GrahamD 07 Feb 2024
In reply to IainMcT:

Sella Towers are an obvious first foray into climbing in the Dolomites.  It certainly was for me.


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