UKC

The soles are falling off my ancient Nepal extremes, I'll get them resoled but with a trip to the continent next week I need some replacements and I've been after an excuse to get something lighter weight anyway.

Looking at the G tech or G summit. From what I've read elsewhere the tech is not so warm, perhaps good for moving fast in the alps but less so for a cold day in Scotland. People say they're very light and easy to walk in though. The summit is probably the better option, plus I can actually get them in my size (techs are sold out in any bricks and mortar shops within driving distance).

Anyone got any experience of either/both of them?

Would be for Scottish winter at around V, maybe even the odd VI one day, and alpine spring/summer use.

I've got very low volume feet and La Sportiva tend to be the best option in the UK where brand variety is limited, not tried on any Scarpa boots for a long time but unless the fit has changed over the years they're likely to be too wide.

Completely different to those two choices, how about a fit and last that is more familiar in the form of Nepal cubes? Another option might be asolo they are good for a narrow forefoot but their fit can be hit and miss. How about a pair of trango tower extremes (B3)? My friend has ribelles and i find them narrow so maybe dont discard Scarpa so quickly. I've heard the Scarpa mont blanc pro is on the narrower side maybe someone can correct me, they are also very light. 

I'm actually in the process of reviewing the G-Summit in this less-than-ideal Scottish Winter season (although looks like winter is back!).

I've have also used the G5's in the past, and would recommend these as they fill the gap somewhere between the G Summit and G tech as for as I can tell (I may be wrong in that as I haven't used the G Tech. I noticed that the G5 are currently on sale at many retailers, so may be worth considering before you drop a lot on the likes of the G Summit.

For what you have said, the G Summit will be ideal for V and the occasional VI - they will keep your feet warm at long belays and still provide the technical performance you are probably after. For VII and above I'd imagine you will want a more nimble and low profile boot like the G-Tech (the G Summits can feel pretty chunky at times). For Alpine Spring/Summer depending on what your objectives are, they could be a bit too warm for this.

Like everything, and particularly footwear, the suitability will come down to fit. One thing that I have noticed is that the powerstrap at the shin needs to be tightened really tightly on me (I have thin legs) to maintain a solid fit when front pointing. Unfortunately, this means there has been a bit of digging into my ankle here which is a bit uncomfortable. Although, this may not be the case with you. For this reason I'd recommend if you can try before you buy.

These are however the warmest boots I own, great for winter belays and could certainly be used for some bigger cold summits in the alps etc.

The G Summits deep-lugged outsole (similar to that of the Aequilibrium) is also interesting although I'm not 100% sure that I'm sold on this. It's great at biting in and braking although it doesn't feel as wide and stable as sportiva's old sole on the likes of the G5.

I'll have a more detailed review on site hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

I've been using the G-Tech's for the last year or so in Scotland (and also in the Alps/Norway etc). I usually pair them up with a pair of heated socks, but they're pretty warm anyway without. If they fit right then they're an amazing boot to climb in. Lightweight and low profile (which makes them really nice to climb in as it doesn't feel like you've got big clogs on your feet so you can place them much more precisely). The boa on the outside is a great addition too as you can crank it tight for when you're climbing and then loosen them off at belays to help keep your feet warmer.

For what's worth, I've been using G-techs, warmest boot I owned, more than nepal extremes, trango, cubes and spantik (yes, really). The fact you can release the boa at belays is a game changer for me. I own a pair of top notch Lenz heated socks, I didn't need them even at -10 in both Dolomites and Norway. So far I can't praise them highly enough. But if the same principle applies to the G Summits I can't imagine how warm they'll be, probably too warm for me. Maybe for scotland for very long belays and easier ground then perhaps G Summits, though I haven't tried them myself

Don't discount Scarpa until you've tried them, there have been various changes to fit and lasts in recent years, good for some, not so much for me as Phantom Techs are out! Frustrating after years of perfect fit in Phantom Guides. I've only tried the G Summits in a shop but found them more substantial feeling than I expected, not far from G5's in 'clunkiness'. The removable liner was odd for me, with it in the most I'd be able to wear is very thin socks, with it out everything was fractionally loose. The liner itself is super minimalist and I'm not convinced it adds a lot more warmth than a decent pair of socks. From days in plastics I actually quite like liners/ double boots but wish they'd either designed the Summits around having one all the time or not. May have to go for G Techs but it sounds like the fit on those is different again.

I've been using the G-Tech this year, but have no experience of the G summit. Prior to the G-Tech I've used Nepal, Nepal Evo, Batura and Trango ice cube over the last 25 yrs or so.

The G-Tech is the best boot I've used on ice and the fit, aided by the boa, makes them a joy to climb in. I don't suffer from cold feet, but they seem about as warm as the other boots above that I can compare with. As Ramon says, the ability to loosen them on belays is a big help for warmth imho. 

For what it is worth i have also had problems  with the velcro strap digging into my shin ( huge blister) -as mentioned by John McKenna -  although i think (as yet not sure - in this rubbish winter) that it may be resolvable by ensuring that this strap is fastened as low as possible - even to the extent of only having it across half of the ' fixed '  side of the velcro.  I have fat calves so the soft tongue does not sit underneath the velcro strip to protect your shin.

Key point is check this out carefully before you buy. 

I tried the GTech but found the boa didn’t work for my foot (low volume heel mid/instep), I couldn’t get it to provide a secure fit without crushing the midfoot. Toe box was better than standard sportiva shape however. I ended up with Phantom tech, 

Any thoughts from the G-Tech users on the more general shape/fit beyond the boa and strapping? I've a pretty high-volume and square-toed foot, I think, and suspect they'd be too slim and pointy, but perhaps not?

(I like the idea of not having laces that slowly come undone throughout a route...)

Thanks all, tried some G summits on, the fit was really good but they're a bit on the bulky side, might be warmer than I really need though hard to tell in a shop. The extremely helpful guy in the shop was singing the praises of the G tech (even though they don't stock them, can't beat that for customer service!) so gambling on getting a pair of those off the internet

You may still find G5's in stock outside in Hathersage had a load in some sizes for good money they're about halway between the two boots in terms of weight and warmth.

I tried them both, the G Tech are based on the Equilibrium last, the G Summit have the same last as the G5 so are a bit wider. I couldn't get a good heel lock in the G Tech but the Summit was really good. The Techs all the work to lock your ankle is done by the velcro but the summit BOA seems to assist more with heel lock. In the end I didn't get the Summit as they gave me a real pressure spot on top of my foot where the BOA runs over the edge of the boot material and I didn't want to get the craft knife out, no issue with the velcro strap on either but I only wore them a few hours round the house.. I currently have the G5 Evo which ruin my ankle after a couple of days where I revert to my old Scarpa phantom techs. 

Neither boot, if they fit, will hinder you on VII and above when you get there.