UKC

An aberrant bolt where the hanger was horizontal caused this. Given the krab was being pulled against the bolt (TR no falls) I'm surprised at the damage. Any comments and thanks in advance.

No technical expertise on my part.

The damage is what it is.

Personally I'd retire it if only on aesthetic grounds.

I wouldn't want it near anything fabric like clothing or harness.

It would make a decent bail biner.

That looks in better condition than the rest of your gear !! 🙃

Relegate it to rack your nuts.

Cheeky git! My spring stitch plate, whillans and EBs are perfectly fine.

Appreciate reply. I've very gently tried a file and wire wool and it's now smooth. But maybe you're right. Not worth worrying over £12.

Love the Boreal Lazers, my favourite ever shoe, I had about seven pairs in a row.

Wot, these?

I think the rule of thumb is if 90% of the width/area remains intact it remains safe (from a break point of view) but the nicks represent a danger soft goods that you clip it to.

So if you only use this end to clip to hardward (as is common i with many people's sport racks) then it's probably still good. 

You might want to smooth the edges - burnishing the nicks with the back steel spoon might get acceptable results without causing further damage (just rounding the sharp bit, not removing the burrs).  I probably would bother with trying to do it on the inner radius .

I've seen much worse from falls and sitting on the rope rocking back and forth and not worried about using it again.

I mean if its bolt end, what's the problem? Take excess burrs off and you'll be fine.

I find kitchen scouring pads the best - the green non-metalic ones. Takes a while but no chance of doing unintended damage. 

Nearly all the krabs i have retired are due to bolt damage - the few are wear due to belaying/abseiling.

Cheers Gravy. I found taking the burs out really gently has smoothed it all off. I'd say it's a good 90%+ ok and it's the bolt krab of an alpha draw.

Ta for reply; effectively backing gravy.

Hadn't thought of that, used a soft wire wool. Cheers

Too late for this krab, but if your climbing area is bolted maybe invest in 2 of those Edelrid bulletproof jobbies

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/belays/edelrids_bulletproof_karabi...

Here's my partially educated guess (probably contains life threatening errors)

The alloy used in crabs is probably 7xxx which has a very high tensile strength.

But in your case, probably more important is it's ductile and malleable. Basically the opposite of glass.

Glass type materials, think of cast iron, when under strain, need to be in very good condition. Any damage, and it will concentrate the loads and crack. This is why scoring glass causes is to crack when you bend it. Instead of the tension being spread between all the atoms, it concentrates on the atoms preventing the scored line from propagating.

So I don't think your nobbled crabs will result in a significant reduction in strength. Probably. Maybe.

It's ugly, it happens. I'd smooth it off and forget about it. You do what you're comfortable with.

Jk

Not to mention the cravat and smoking jacket !

These krabs won't help in this situation - it's only the rope basket part of the krab that has the hard-wearing insert.

These krabs won't help in this situation - it's only the rope basket part of the krab that has the hard-wearing insert.

I thought that's mostly where the damage was, but looking again at the pic: you're right, there's damage on the outside as well as the inside, so the bulletproof would only help with half of it

Had a look at these, good kit, but as nikoid said might not have helped. Thanks for the suggestion tho.