UKC

is a beal escaper a good christmas present for an alpine climber?

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 James0101 17 Dec 2024

now that the dust has settled abit i see the vast majority of reviews are very positive.

although the negative reviews possibly have a way of taking care of themselves.

 Fellover 18 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

I don't have one and if someone got me one for Christmas I'd be happy about it.

 Merlin 18 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

Just googled out of intrigue; wow! Surely a game changer (if you don't kill yourself using it)? Saves carrying a tag line.

Tricky with gloves on though maybe?

Post edited at 08:56
 oldie 18 Dec 2024
In reply to Fellover:

> I don't have one and if someone got me one for Christmas I'd be happy about it.

TBH I bought one when they came on the market as an interesting toy. Someone could even try it out setting up a top rope for eg access to a sea cliff since  the stopper knot used for first down makes it bombproof. They could then investigate the ease or otherwise of release by pulls until the knot was reached....virtually no time taken away from the climbing day. I imagine most would use a backup sling on first use !

 Andy Johnson 18 Dec 2024
In reply to Merlin:

> Just googled out of intrigue; wow! Surely a game changer (if you don't kill yourself using it)?

I did the same. Read "releasable rappel" and "single strand" and hit the back button as fear took me in its icy grip.

As a Christmas present it would feel a bit like being given a base-jumping wingsuit. But cheaper I guess.

Post edited at 10:47
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 gethin_allen 18 Dec 2024
In reply to Andy Johnson:

> I did the same. Read "releasable rappel" and "single strand" and hit the back button as fear took me in its icy grip.

Surely it's no issue abbing on a single strand of rope. If you're using this I'd guess you'd be climbing on a single or triple rated rope and you wouldn't be dynamically loading it like you would if you were falling.

 flaneur 18 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

It depends. Are you a beneficiary in their will?

 Andy Johnson 18 Dec 2024
In reply to gethin_allen:

> Surely it's no issue abbing on a single strand of rope.

On a non-retrievable ab thats obviously fine. The terrifying aspect of the Escaper is whole thing about releasing the rope by just tugging it.

(Getting off the topic of present-suitability though)

Post edited at 11:52
 beardy mike 18 Dec 2024
In reply to Andy Johnson:

I have one and have used it a few times now. I can honestly say that there is little to no chance of it releasing by accident. Quite the opposite. Its actually a bit scary getting to the bottom and wondering if the bounce and release motion is actually doing anything. But it is. After about 20 really full on tugs down it comes. For one or two pitches of abseiling, it's just the job. I wouldn't want to do more than that as its actually knackering to keep bouncing it.

 LastBoyScout 18 Dec 2024
In reply to Andy Johnson:

> I did the same. Read "releasable rappel" and "single strand" and hit the back button as fear took me in its icy grip.

I watched a video of it, out of interest. Think I'd only ever use one as an emergency option, if you had no choice ab'ing off an overhang.

Otherwise, nah, not for me.

> As a Christmas present it would feel a bit like being given a base-jumping wingsuit. But cheaper I guess.

I'd prefer the wingsuit - but then I used to skydive.

OP James0101 18 Dec 2024
In reply to beardy mike:

im interested if you have any thoughts about how this product was developed?

the concept itself seems wild, to then take that forward through R&D to something i can buy off the shelf at V12 seems like a really high bar to prove its effective.

 Dave Cundy 18 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

I think it is such a specialised piece of kit that there is a high chance of it being an unwanted/unloved gift.   If i was happy to use it, I'd have gone out and bought it already.

 beardy mike 18 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

Well it's just a prussick loop/releasable Chinese finger trap. It's good lateral thinking and bound to be a guide or alpinist with a bee in their bonnet. And if you put it in the context of french multipitch bolted routes it makes some sense. Single ropes are convenient for bolted pitches, and this is a light, easy way to retreat if needs be.

Whilst I can appreciate the naysayers points of view, quite honestly I think it's because they've never been in the same room as one, let alone  tried one. I'm not going to pretent it's not niche, but it does exactly what it promises.

 oldie 18 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

Perhaps worth emphasizing that for all except the last person it will never release because a stopper knot is tied as per instructions. The last person removes that knot but is still very safe abseiling as they have checked for any slippage during the previous abseils.

 David Coley 19 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

We took one a couple of winters ago on the north face of the eiger as we were climbing on a single rope for speed. Took it just in case.

 ExiledScot 19 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

It's ok as a present, but they'd likely prefer a full season chamonix lift pass. (Just in case my other half has created an account here to test opinions.)

 Merlin 19 Dec 2024
In reply to James0101:

As others have said, I think even if you're not planning to use it for routine descent, ie. if you were doing a big route, planning to walk off the top, but fancied a back-up descent option, seems pretty decent to me. I can think of it being pretty useful in places like the Dolomites, Verdon, alps etc 


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