UKC

Offering unrivalled warmth for their low weight and easy packability, thinner down jackets can be handy in pretty much any outdoor setting, from UK cragging to the Alps, ultralight backpacking to year-round hillwalking. You probably wear yours to work too. In this comparative review, lightweight down jackets from seven leading brands go head to head. 

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Good article as usual! Wasn't aware that higher fill power down can be more prone to damage. I know it's been used for a while now but does the use of synthetic in parts of down jacket mean that you could have part of a jacket that's lost quite a lot of loft i.e. due to down maintaining it's performance for much longer than synth?

Decathlon lightweight down jacket €75 Perfect, just as warm as a lightweight Patagonia down jacket I have. I wear it all the time for colder Alpine skiing days under a shell.

It’s a good article - and I love reading about jackets as much as the next person on UKC (which is to say… an embarrassingly large amount).

I have to say I thought 400-500g was pretty light, not really winter weight as suggested here - I’d certainly be cold in less when not moving. The popular decathlon/Simond one and the rab microlight are both around this range and very versatile.

But… these jackets just aren’t really that comparable and I doubt are suitable for the same purposes.

you have some ultralight walking jackets with a hood that is useless when climbing (won’t go over a helmet, and does anyone really rock climb in a fragile down jacket anyway or put a helmet over their down hood?)

then some that are more suitable for mountaineering etc but still fairly light (though I think only the north face and mountain equipment have the hood and weight that most want for the Alps in summer or as a belay jacket)

then a few that are neither… good for walking and arguably what most people would benefit from (but not so good if you’re a climber)

Agreed , although it's very difficult to make a jacket that's just right for a variety of activities, conditions etc, hence why lots of use have multiple jackets haha. 

For UK use on the move in the hills, with a pack on, I find down far too warm. It's usually carried just in case.

I agree. A down jacket is supposed to be a warm thing for cold weather. The ubiquitous modern lightweight down jacket such as these is a triumph of marketing over function IMHO, excellent for the high street but little better than a fleece in the hills.

Not sure. I have three down jackets: light, mid and serious and the light one gets far more use than the others. I don't really care what a jacket is "supposed to be", I care whether it's useful.

I have 2 down jackets, one 'serious' (ME Annapurna) & a lightweight Rab smock style. But I also have a Primaloft filled light jacket, almost as warm as the Rab, but easily washable & I find I wear it far more often than either of the other two. For a jacket to be worn frequently, usually for day trips (& it seems often mostly just around town) I struggle to see why down is so popular.

I note that PHD isn't reviewed, which I have used and are good. Maybe a bit more expensive but UK made. https://www.phdesigns.co.uk/

Please could the new Mountain Equipment Oreus be included in this review? While not down, it is being described as game changing insulation, so comparing it to these down jackets would be useful.  

Are any of these box quilted? If not then I'll stay with my Mountain Warehouse cheapie.

You forgot PHD jackets. 

I have an Alpine Ultra k. Around 300 grams and rated to minus 10. 

 The ubiquitous modern lightweight down jacket such as these is a triumph of marketing over function IMHO, excellent for the high street but little better than a fleece in the hills.

Yeah, about seven years ago the Rab microlight down jacket started appearing everywhere and it was suddenly ok to start wearing outdoor gear to work. Question still remains as to whether TX4s are acceptable.

For the weight a down jacket is far warmer.

But such a light weight, it's marginal gains, and less versatile.

2 extra layers of nylon as well, there's not enough insulation to make the garment worthwhile.

Agreed, obviously if you're going to be belaying or anticipating stopping for prolonged periods then a big warm jacket is the way to go but for hillwalking or general mountaineering where you not sure how cold it's going to be 2-3k feet higher, then a lighter down jacket is ideal as it's going to be used to supplement the warmth of your existing layers, or might just sit in the pack unused, best jacket is the one that you actually have with you and all that.

Based on colour alone Montane looks mega 😍