UKC

Hi

Looking for a new Goretex pro jacket before it moves to epe.

Any thoughts on the Mountain Equipment Lhotse vs Arcteryx Beta AR? Any others to consider.

thanks

Chris

Depends on budget I guess. Both are excellent jackets just in the UK ME is more affordable.

My personal opinion is that ME are masters of Gore Tex and I love the fact they rarely change anything!

Beta AR is also lightweight compared to the burly Lhotse so a consideration for sure if you're mainly walking and some climbing or want something that will do everything.

Outside had some Norrona Gore Pro on the sale rail when I was there other day that looked awesome!

Hi cmr

Ive a 5 year old ME Kongur and it’s the best jacket that I’ve ever had.

Can I ask what the changes to the fabric will be?

I might get another.

Ta

Dave

I've had a Lhotse for five years and it's OK, not as waterproof as I'd like, but they never are after a few years. One thing to note is the arm length. I've got six other ME jackets in Large, down, synthetic and softshell, and the Lhotse is the only one where the arms are super-long, like about three inches too much. Might be worth trying one on before buying (I got mine online without trying it first), as I found the extra length a bit of a pain tbh, although I've got used to it.

I've been trying to buy a new waterproof jacket for quite some months.

I've got an old ME jacket that's a brilliant fit on me, but they seem to have changed the cut and all the current ones in my price range are too tight across the back and bunch up badly under my armpits

Try them on. The ME waterproof I have is excellent but quite slim fitting. 

I did my research and looked at warranty . Arcterex are a nightmare if you read the problems people have had . My beta lt has been good not great but i wouldn't send it in for a repair or waterproofing . I bought a makalu in the new plastic and it works fine then i got a deal on a tupilak, that thing it a tank and will see me through anything.

I’ve read that people have previously had problems with their repair service but I was really pleased with their free repair on an eleven year old jacket last year https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/good_service_from_arc'teryx-769706 

Ye, my main reason for liking ME long arms and body! I've got a Tupilak and might get another before all the changes come in.

I'm not very good at explaining what the changes are but from others using it it requires a huge amount more upkeep and wets out quicker.

Rob Greenwood did a piece about it a while ago.

https://youtu.be/-ht7nOaIkpI?si=ogVBMQhvt8xa_AF3

I'd encourage you to watch this video. I'd guessed they must be toxic to a degree but I didn't think our bodies were all full of PFAS

My point was that this model is unique in that regard. All the other jackets of theirs I've got are completely standard arm length. So it's an odd one. 

I dunno, of all the ME stuff I own I find the arms pleasantly long, sometimes too long.

Arc’teryx have changed their cuts and design of their hoods a lot over the past few years. They're now very geared toward shifting products to a high street market. My old Beta AR and Beta LT are incomparable to the newer models. For the mountains you’re now more likely to get a more suitably designed product from ME, unless you buy an Alpha SV. Arc’teryx are also super short in the body, which is a pain for the jacket slipping up under a harness as you move. 
 

Had a Lhotse for a few years, think I got it on ebay for around £125 if I remember correctly, still going strong. Had an ME Morpheus for about 10 years before that which got relegated to gardening and crawling around under the car. It's still pretty waterproof despite being covered in oil and dirt! Can't really beat them for the price. Only thing I'm not happy about with it is the map pocket is just a tiny bit too small.