In reply to TobyA:
+1 for the Michael Wood and Wild Swans (though the latter did give me nightmares about the cultural revolution).
I haven't been to China but I'd like to go. Speaking last year to an academic who regularly guides cultural/archaeological tours, I gleaned that: you will get watched, devices may be inspected and compromised, so nothing naughty or sensitive on your phone etc. X said he had a problem with maps on his laptop, until he could show they were historical maps and the customs officer turned out to be interested in history of his own country. He also sat down and had a cup of tea with his allocated Chinese guide and agreed what he would/wouldn't do and what the guide would/wouldn't report back to HQ. Friends who did a guided tour said that their Chinese guide quietly advised them that he might give different answers to questions discretely on the coach, compared to what he'd say in a public space.
Not sure, but you may have to install some sort of Chinese app on your phone - happy to be corrected on this.