UKC

Hi, anyone done this in the last 12 months, please ?

Usual question, how much fixed gear is there currently. 

Thanks 

A couple of bolts in the upper pitches. I'd say maybe half of the other pitches had a stuck piece or two in November. I don't remember many (any?) pegs

They were actively de-equiping it when I was there a couple of years ago.

Did it 2y ago. Nearly all trad. Bolted belays every 30m. The crux near top had a couple of bolts. A big grey friend very worth taking...

Thanks everyone. 

My first ever euro cragging trip we did it in about 8 hours with thunder and lighting on the final chimneys. Years later I repeated it when somewhat more proficient in about 4 hours, at one point we forgot to exchange our meagre trad rack and I remember vividly running out about 100 feet with no gear at all. 

Have they removed the original wooden bongs from the FA?  That'd be a shame.

Ok, my "La Demande" story incoming...

I don't know.  I didn't climb it on that trip. (I climbed it in its more origonal state many years previously).  I met one of the guys responsible for one of the local guides who was part of the de-equiping team.  Their objective was to restore the climb to its original state so there's a fair chances the wedges were left.

I did back in the early 80's.  It felt like trad and I don't recall any bolts although that could be my ageing memory.  The top was very run out and we also climbed it in a thunderstorm.  I think the ascent took about 4 or 5 hours. It was very memorable.

Had an "epic" on this last year because my partner got stuck in a chimney...plan for only the belays being bolted and bring a big cam or two then you'll be fine.

It got thoroughly bolted in the late 80s.