UKC

Which guidebook would you recommend for a weekend visit to Polldubh, thinking of dropping in on the way back down from a trip to Torridon. Looking for routes in the severe to E1 range, which guide might give the best selection?

I’ve only used the now ancient Grindlay one but as Gary Latter was a leading activist there and probably knows the area as well if not better than anyone I’d be inclined to go with his book. 
 

FWIW I’ve done most routes there at those grades (plus a few a little harder) and if you get the conditions you’re in for a very busy and enjoyable weekend.

Thanks, any recommendations for routes, if you had to pick a handful, to what might you go for?

Off the top of my head, unmissable routes are:

Flying Dutchman

Phantom Slab

Storm

Clapham Junction Direct

Double or Quits

Tricouni Slab (VD but brilliant)

Secretaries Direct and Superdirect

Damnation

Resurrection

Pine Wall

Shergar

The Web (think this is E2 but very safe)

Kraut

Spike Direct

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Make sure you go to the gorge area. All our Yesterdays and Conscription are brilliant and if you feel on top form, Plague of Blazes is a contender for the best route in the glen though it's bold.

Bear in mind my info is 35ish years old so some routes might have changed character and certainly grade.

There are routes I can't remember the names of, I'll see if I can dig out my guidebook and check but that lot would keep you occupied for a bit.

Highland outcrops south has it well covered. 

Agreed, Highland Outcrops south has better coverage than Gary Latter's books, although if you want a wider area covered in less detail, maybe Gary Latter's guides are for you?

GL's most recent Vol.1 is a great book that covers a huge variety of mountain crags as well as loads of outcrop climbing. The SMC Definitive is good if you live locally or are a frequent visitor but for your monies worth I'd get Gary's book, it certainly has enough covered at the grades you're after for several visits.

Covers climbing further south and east as well if it happens to be a bit damp in the Glen and you need to go elsewhere. 

Thanks for the tips. Guidebook ordered. Just need the weather and no midges now.