UKC

Hello, planning a couple of days on Skye/ the Cuillin Ridge next month. I was planning on taking a 40m rope as thought this would be sufficient but just noticed that one of Steve Fallon's route descriptions now says that for abseiling King's Chimney "a 50m doubled should be fine". Can anyone confirm if a 40m rope doubled would be ok for getting down to Bealach a' Bhasteir?

Thanks

Mike Lates info on the winter traverse says Kings Cave Chimney is a 25m ab. But that doesn't go to the Bealach a' Bhasteir.

Assuming you mean Tooth Chimney on the West ridge of Sgùrr nan Gillean, Adrian Trendall's guide says you need a 50m rope to reach the bottom. It's quite steep and doesn't follow the line of the scramble, so not reaching the bottom could be an issue! The scramble itself is Moderate on good holds and rock, but whether you'd want to down climb it is obviously a personal decision. If you'd be happy down climbing the Inn Pinn you'd be happy on it IMO.

Ah yes, Tooth Chimney is the one, thanks!

40m is fine for Tooth Chimney. I usually abseil down the rib to the climber's right rather than the chimney itself.

If you actually mean King's Cave Chimney on Am Basteir (yes it's confusing) then a 40m is usually also fine, but only just.

Thank you, it's definitely Tooth Chimney that was meant. By climber's right I assume to their right if facing into the rock?

Yes. I just find going down the rib a bit less awkward than the chimney, though some people prefer the chimney as you're captured in there and can't swing to either side.

Worth noting that 40m doesn't get you all the way to the 'bottom' but you don't want to go all the way down there - it gets you to a ledge which is then traversed towards the bealach.

Interesting topic, the ridge is such a complex place.

Now I've always assumed what we've scrambled up and abbed down was Nicholsons Chimney but maybe it was Tooth Chimney? Have used it a few times but am now unsure. 

Picture attached of the last time, if a Skye guru wants to name the chimney?

That's Tooth Chimney, and you must have had an early start to catch the sun in it!

Nicolson's Chimney tops out a bit further up the west ridge, the next major fault.

Ah that's great, I've gained some new Skye knowledge. Every day is a learning day.

Now the story behind that picture is it was a day traverse and was taken in the evening. We'd done Sgurr na Gillian as an out and back then walked down Coire a' Bhastier to the Slig as we hadn't been on the South East Ridge in years.

Ah ok evening makes sense, I guess even if the angle was right the morning sun would be blocked by Knight's Peak etc.