UKC

More Dolomites Questions

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 beagly77 02 Jun 2025

I'll be visiting the Dolomites in September for a couple of weeks with a US climbing friend - I live in the US.  Planning on staying in accommodation rather than camping.  I've a copy of the 2014 Rockfax guide but it's daunting given I haven't been to the Dolomites in 30 years and only climbed at the Tre Cime then.  We may have a third person as well. So...

1) recommendations for quality non-polished moderate length 5 -10 pitch routes HS E2.  As we're ancient these need to be shortish walks/teleferique access?

2) recommendations as to a convenient area to be based to minimize driving?

3) Is it useful to be based at any of the huts and if so which ones given the above route preferences?

4) recommendations for - a guide to? - longer sport routes 6a - 6c [there isn't much in rock fax]?

Thx

Simon

 Toerag 02 Jun 2025
In reply to beagly77:

The guide 'Arrampicare in Cortina' (or something similar) is a sportclimbing guide, but there's very few multipitch in it - Ones at Cinque Torre and one other venue iirc.  Needlesports have a multipitch guide though:-

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Media/Guidebooks/Italy-Malta/M...

OP beagly77 02 Jun 2025
In reply to Toerag:

Thx I'll look into that

 dominic lee 02 Jun 2025
In reply to beagly77:

Take a look at the crags around the Sella pass. Sella Towers. Piz Ciavazes. Classic trad crags with medium length routes and easy approaches. As well as sports crags like Frea. Fantastic area and easily accessible from Canazei.

 Toerag 02 Jun 2025
In reply to beagly77:

> Thx I'll look into that

Thinking about it, it might be mostly trad.  Needlesports do another guide which might be useful?

https://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Media/Guidebooks/Italy-Malta/F...

It looks like it could be the successor to the one I originally mentioned (mine is about 15 years old)

 ripper 02 Jun 2025
In reply to dominic lee:

> Take a look at the crags around the Sella pass. Sella Towers. Piz Ciavazes. Classic trad crags with medium length routes and easy approaches. As well as sports crags like Frea. Fantastic area and easily accessible from Canazei.

second this, and not much further to the Vajolet Towers, Piz Pordoi, Sass Ciampac, Cinque Ditta...

OP beagly77 02 Jun 2025
In reply to ripper:

thx everybody

 Jenny C 03 Jun 2025
In reply to beagly77:

September can be summer or quickly change to winter conditions, so pack clothing accordingly. 

Regardless of the weather, mid September the summer tourist infrastructure starts to shut down. Lifts close as do campsites.


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