UKC

Heading out to the Pyrenees next week and will be based in Boi-Taull. We'll be climbing a lot on the granite crags of  Cavallers and keen for some multi-pitch during the week.

I understand a lot of the multi-pitch options have bolted first pitches then turn into trad/sparsely bolted with bolted belays, and many other routes are purely trad. 

Wondering if anyone can help out with information regarding what trad gear would be beneficial to take? And also if it's worth packing a pair of 50 or 60's in addition to the 80m sport rope.

Any information or route recommendations very welcome.

Thanks in advance

Cavallers? I though it was heavan on earth. Spent a month there. Dam area much less serious than if you go up to the hut where it is a lot more gnarly and doesn't look as much fun or as a good a rock. But i didn't do multi pitch up there so maybe i am wrong. All the sport around the dam is great. You will be good at blank slabs by the time you are done.

The algullas near the dam but high are fantastic. We did 'El pistacho de something or other'. Stunning route and Blues looks just as good. Semi equiped, so a bolt here and there which means you don't get lost and bolt belays and one, if i remember, abseil of the back. What's not to like?. Gear? Imo not a uk mega rack. A few cams, nothing too heavy, and maybe 1 through 10 wires. We had 50's when we were there which was fine but it is a few years ago now. Enjoy. 

Great feedback Ian - much appreciated.

Cheers,

Bram

ps. I would recommend the alfonso guidebook. It was all that was available when we were there. Really excellent. As i remember it tells you what gear to take for each route. In Spanish but you don't need a lot to translate gear requirements. 

Climbed there a few times a while ago with some locals. Endorse the other comments - Alfonso topo. its classic granite so cams go well.  if you like mountain routes they are superb in which case i would recommend twin for the abs.  Also climbed from refugi Ventosa - could still be snow great sport and also superb trad mountain routes - good info from the guardian. Refuge can get very busy on WE and there is ( i think ) a big public holiday in spain in June.

You dont mention grades but endorse Pistachio assassin , Blues , John lee hooker 

Also - African Wall and that sector left and below the dam.  Pas de l'os.  both for cragging

Watch for afternoon thunderstorms. Not sure of latest rules on parking right up at the dam - there were some restrictions. Risk of theft from vehicles parked there.

Thanks Ian. A bit late to order the Alfonso guidebook unfortunately as we leave on Sunday (only booked it on Wednesday!). Sure we'll be able to sort something out there.

Cheers

Great stuff thanks Martin. Had a look at the routes following yours and Ian's feedback and they're all on a very helpful "Cavallers Classics" ticklist which should keep us busy for the week!

Cheers,

Bram

Echo all the advice so far. Couple more tips.

"Reseña" is used where we use 'topo'. So googling 'reseña + route name + crag' (eg: "reseña blues comalestorres") will often yield topos. Useful for multipitches round there.

Also Alfonso's website is: https://www.lanochedelloro.es/ and it has loads of good info, and a lot of topos on it. Generally for stuff not in his books, but that includes plenty of good routes.

Make sure to swim in the reservoir once you get back down.

Aigüestortes is really beautiful, so definitely explore beyond cavallers.

There is a small outdoor shop in Barruera on the way to the park that has the guide. Also Marmot Shop in Viehla (if driving in from Toulouse) 

Have a wet weather alternative! 

Viuet or Santorini are good or head over to Pobla de Segur as a base for Lleida limestone (POD) guide.

Yes, when we were there as soon as you saw a puff of cloud it was time to run. Then it could throw it down seemingly all night and you wokw up to everything bone dry. It took a bit of getting used to. 

Excellent advice thank you salix

Thanks critter, great advice. Had already been checking how long the drive down to Collegats was in the event of rain.

Will pick up a book from Barruera. 

Cheers

The funny thing is we've spent the early part of this week glued to long term UK weather forecasts wondering where to go for the least rain. And ended up plumping for a mountain area abroad prone to thunderstorms!

It'll be a great week and like you say, dries quickly.

Thanks all for the posts, really helpful.

We had been on a van trip, a month in and we land in Cavallers. First route we tried, a slab, (4+) if i remember correctly, i couldn't work out how to do it. Had been onsighting 7a further south. Until it dawned on me you just put your feet on the rock and stand up. Got used to sticking my bum out resting my cheek on the rock and squinting down looking for the slightest depression as the next foothold. Least ways that's how i did it.