I asked about climbing around Boston/new England and few months ago and got some great advice
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/destinations/bostonnew_york_for_climbing-...
Ultimately Dom and Helens blogs were super useful as always but I tthought I'd share a few things for others.
Firstly I hadn't heard of much climbing in the NE USA but there is absolutely tonnes much of it quality and it was a great place for a road trip. We had totally mad weather with 20 degree differences in temperature in 24 hours, I'm not sure if this is normal but either way it was way too hot and humid on quite a few days to climb. It also rained alot as we went more north west. Either way, June isn't the best time for conditions (I was tagging this on to a work thing).
We used GunksApp for the Adriondacks and Rumney, which was a bit like a clunky rockfax but worked OK. Other stuff I got off Mountain project.
I read a lot about blackfly before the trip and thought they were bassically midges. In fact they are essentially carnivorous fruit flies and can proper chew you up if not prepared. However by covering up (hard to do in 30+ degrees) and repellant they are bearable. They can also deal with quite high winds! Ultimately if you can climb in Scotland in the summer you can probably deal with the biting insects.
We also did the Huntington ravine on Mount Washington witch is a super fun grade 1/2 scramble, is not exposed and dispite protestations of local hikers that 'YER GONNA DIE!" is totally fine in the wet.
In terms of the climbing:
Adirondacks: we did some absolutely brilliant single pitch trad, but missed a few days due to weather
Rumney: great (but not world class as they like to think) sport. Quite a unique style. Humid as feck in the summer!
Cannon mountain: a roadside hells lum
Whitehorse ledge: looked absolutely brilliant from the car, and certainly not all blank slabs as I'd thought, but at 39 and 60% humidity degrees I'm going swimming.
New Hampshire and Vermont makes you realise how weirdly tree-less the UK is.
